Home for Christmas: celebrate our Italian bounty

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Marinated Olives

Tagliaelle with Garlic and Toasted Walnuts

Braised Fennel

Carrot Sformati with Basil-Mascarpone Cream

Wild Mushroom Ragu with Golden Polenta

Marinated Oranges

Brutti ma Bouni

Christmas--in Italy, its celebrations are steeped in traditions that blend solemn religious pageantry with the secular: Celebrants intersperse church visits with lighting the Yule log, or the Ceppo, with handing out gifts to family members and with awaiting the arrival of the witchlike character, la Befana, who, according to legend, directed the Three Wise Men to Bethlehem.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are times for family gatherings, and for women to cook for days before and during the holidays. "It is really one of the biggest occasions of the year for families," says Cynthia Glover, whose maternal family emigrated from Italy in the late 19th century. As part of secular practices, Italian women structure Christmas meals according to a system of numerology, with the numbers 3 (the Trinity), 4 (the number of Gospels), 7 (the number of virtues and the number of hills surrounding Rome), 9 (the months of pregnancy), and 11, 12 and 13 (the varying numbers of apostles) dictating the numbers and types of dishes served--a practice more prevalent in Southern than in Northern Italy.

While some aspects of Christmas merriment may have changed in the New World, Italian Americans still hold fast to one custom: They eat. "It is wall-to-wall food," says Glover, who, with her small but extended family in Baltimore, starts cooking with her nephew and her mother at least one day before Christmas Eve. This assures ample food for the Christmas Eve feast. "He and my mom and I spend the afternoon together cooking, setting the table and arranging a festive center-piece of greens, such as holly and boxwood with ornaments," Glover says. She remembers that as a child she and her family went to midnight Mass after dinner, and then came home to eat more. "Everyone contributes to the Christmas Eve meal. My father plays Christmas carols on the piano, and we sit down to talk and eat for 3 hours. After dessert, we open gifts, one at a time. The party usually lasts until one in the morning."

In many traditional Italian families, there is also a Christmas Day feast with eating, drinking and dancing. The festivities usually continue through Christmas Day--and these recipes will help spread the cheer.

Marinated Olives

MAKES 3 1/2 CUPS

Offered with a separate bowl of salted
almonds and a festive glass of something
bubbly, these tangy olives will pique your
guests' appetites. Be sure to allow ample
time for the olives to marinate.

1        lb. whole Greek black olives,
         drained
2        cloves garlic, slivered
1/2      tsp. crushed red pepper
1        tsp. dried basil
1/2      tsp. dried mint
1/2      tsp. crushed fennel seeds
1/4      cup extra virgin olive oil
1        large lemon, halved

1. Place all ingredients except lemon in
mixing bowl. Juice half lemon, and add Juice
to bowl. Cut remaining half lemon into
thin rounds.

2. Quarter lemon rounds, and add to
bowl. Set aside to marinate at room temperature,
tossing periodically, for at least 2
hours before serving.

PER SERVING: 230 CAL; 1G PROT; 22G TOTAL
FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 7G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
930MG SOD; 1G FIBER; 0G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

Garlic, hot pepper, lemon, herbs and spices make these olives flavorful A glass of something red--and very Italian such as a Prosecco, or a Pozzi Barbera, which is dry yet robust enough to stand up to the piquancy of the olives--would be a good pairing. For a smoother yet still slightly spicy red, try a Torre Spina Montepulciano.