Home for Christmas: celebrate our Italian bounty

Vegetarian Times, Dec, 2003 by Alexandra Greeley

menu

Marinated Olives

Tagliaelle with Garlic and Toasted Walnuts

Braised Fennel

Carrot Sformati with Basil-Mascarpone Cream

Wild Mushroom Ragu with Golden Polenta

Marinated Oranges

Brutti ma Bouni

Christmas--in Italy, its celebrations are steeped in traditions that blend solemn religious pageantry with the secular: Celebrants intersperse church visits with lighting the Yule log, or the Ceppo, with handing out gifts to family members and with awaiting the arrival of the witchlike character, la Befana, who, according to legend, directed the Three Wise Men to Bethlehem.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are times for family gatherings, and for women to cook for days before and during the holidays. "It is really one of the biggest occasions of the year for families," says Cynthia Glover, whose maternal family emigrated from Italy in the late 19th century. As part of secular practices, Italian women structure Christmas meals according to a system of numerology, with the numbers 3 (the Trinity), 4 (the number of Gospels), 7 (the number of virtues and the number of hills surrounding Rome), 9 (the months of pregnancy), and 11, 12 and 13 (the varying numbers of apostles) dictating the numbers and types of dishes served--a practice more prevalent in Southern than in Northern Italy.

While some aspects of Christmas merriment may have changed in the New World, Italian Americans still hold fast to one custom: They eat. "It is wall-to-wall food," says Glover, who, with her small but extended family in Baltimore, starts cooking with her nephew and her mother at least one day before Christmas Eve. This assures ample food for the Christmas Eve feast. "He and my mom and I spend the afternoon together cooking, setting the table and arranging a festive center-piece of greens, such as holly and boxwood with ornaments," Glover says. She remembers that as a child she and her family went to midnight Mass after dinner, and then came home to eat more. "Everyone contributes to the Christmas Eve meal. My father plays Christmas carols on the piano, and we sit down to talk and eat for 3 hours. After dessert, we open gifts, one at a time. The party usually lasts until one in the morning."

In many traditional Italian families, there is also a Christmas Day feast with eating, drinking and dancing. The festivities usually continue through Christmas Day--and these recipes will help spread the cheer.

Marinated Olives

MAKES 3 1/2 CUPS

Offered with a separate bowl of salted
almonds and a festive glass of something
bubbly, these tangy olives will pique your
guests' appetites. Be sure to allow ample
time for the olives to marinate.

1        lb. whole Greek black olives,
         drained
2        cloves garlic, slivered
1/2      tsp. crushed red pepper
1        tsp. dried basil
1/2      tsp. dried mint
1/2      tsp. crushed fennel seeds
1/4      cup extra virgin olive oil
1        large lemon, halved

1. Place all ingredients except lemon in
mixing bowl. Juice half lemon, and add Juice
to bowl. Cut remaining half lemon into
thin rounds.

2. Quarter lemon rounds, and add to
bowl. Set aside to marinate at room temperature,
tossing periodically, for at least 2
hours before serving.

PER SERVING: 230 CAL; 1G PROT; 22G TOTAL
FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 7G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
930MG SOD; 1G FIBER; 0G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

Garlic, hot pepper, lemon, herbs and spices make these olives flavorful A glass of something red--and very Italian such as a Prosecco, or a Pozzi Barbera, which is dry yet robust enough to stand up to the piquancy of the olives--would be a good pairing. For a smoother yet still slightly spicy red, try a Torre Spina Montepulciano.

Tagliatelle with Garlic
and Toasted Walnuts

SERVES 8

Using high-quality extra virgin olive oil and
cheese is mandatory in such a simple dish.
Toast walnuts in a dry skillet over
medium-low heat, stirring often to prevent
burning. Use more garlic, if you want.

1/2      cup extra virgin olive oil
2        Tbs. butter
6        cloves garlic, minced
1        cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1        cup chopped toasted walnuts plus
4 or 5   whole for garnish
1 1/4    lb. dried tagliatelle
1        cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
         Sea salt and freshly ground black
         pepper to taste

1. Warm olive oil and butter in medium-sized
skillet over medium-low heat. Add
garlic, and cook slowly until garlic is
fragrant and just starting to turn golden,
about 10 minutes. Stir in parsley and
toasted walnuts, and keep warm over very
low heat.

2. Bring large pot of lightly salted water to
a boil. Place tagliatelle into water, and cook
according to package directions. Drain,
and toss pasta gently with warmed olive
oil mixture.

3. Add Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt and
generous grindings of black pepper, and
toss until strands are well coated. Serve
immediately in warmed pasta bowls.

PER SERVING: 550 CAL; 17G PROT; 31G TOTAL
FAT (6G SAT. FAT); S3G CARB; 15MG CHOL;
220MG SOD; 3G FIBER; 3G SUGARS

Braised Fennel

SERVES 8

A touch of cream mellows and sweetens
the fennel. Use a slotted spoon to drain
the slices for serving, or spoon up the
fennel with all its liquid and offer hot
Tuscan bread to sop up the juices.

Extra virgin olive oil for brushing

4       medium-sized or 3 large fennel
        bulbs
4       Tbs. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1       cup vegetable broth
1/4     cup heavy cream
1       tsp. crushed fennel seed
        Sea salt and freshly ground black
        pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350E Lightly rub 2 1/2
quart casserole with olive oil.

2. Slice away and reserve fronds from fennel
bulbs. Cut thin slice off bottom of each
bulb, and remove any bruised outer leaves
Mince enough of fronds to make 4 table-spoons,
and discard remainder. Mix
mined fronds with Parmigiano-Reggiano,
and reserve.

3. Bring large pot of lightly salted water to
a boil. Slice bulbs from top to bottom
lengthwise in 1/2-inch-wide slices. Transfer
slices to boiling water, and cook until half
done, for about 5 minutes. Drain, and place
slices in casserole. Add vegetable broth,
cream, fennel seed, salt and pepper to
casserole. Broth should partially cover fennel.
Add more broth, if needed.

4. Bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with
Parmigiano-Reggiano mixture, and bake
for 15 minutes more, or until golden.
Remove from oven, and serve hot or
lukewarm.

PER SERVING: 80 CAL; 3G PROT; 4.5G TOTAL
FAT (2.5G SAT. FAT); 9G CARB; 10MG CHOL;
110MG SOD: 4G FIBER; 0G SUGARS

Carrot Sformoti with
Basil-Mascarpone Cream

SERVES 8

The charming Italian vegetable custards
called sformati--singular is sformato--are
most often served at important
dinners. Optional blanched carrot slices
draped over top add an elegant touch.

Sformati

4       Tbs. butter
        cup all-purpose flour
2       cups whole milk, heated
1       lb. carrots, peeled and trimmed
2       shallots, finely chopped
2       large eggs plus 2 egg yolks
3       Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
        Freshly ground nutmeg to taste
1/2     tsp. sea salt plus to taste
        Freshly ground black pepper to
        taste
1/4     cup dried breadcrumbs
3       cups mesclun greens
2       Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
        Splash red wine vinegar

Basil Mascarpone Cream

1/2     cup mascarpone
        Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 1/4   Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil
2 to 3  Tbs. whole milk, or as needed
        to thin
        Sea salt and freshly ground black
        pepper to taste

1. To make Sformati: Melt butter in
saucepan over low heat. When it stops
foaming, add flour, and stir with wooden
spoon to make smooth paste. Cook, stirring
continuously, until mixture turns light
golden, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add hot milk
at once, whisking to make smooth paste.
Increase heat to medium-high and, when
mixture comes to a slow boil, cook for 2
minutes more, gently whisking around entire
bottom of pan. Remove from heat,
pour into bowl and press square of plastic
wrap directly onto surface. Set aside to
cool completely, about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, chop carrots, and steam
until tender, about 15 minutes. Spray non-stick
skillet with nonstick cooking spray,
and saute shallots over medium-high heat
until softened and lightly browned, for
about 3 minutes. Puree carrots and shallots
in food processor fitted with metal
blade for about 2 minutes, scraping down
sides at least once.

3. Preheat oven to 400E Spray insides of B
half-cup timbale cups or a 4-eup ring
mold with nonstick cooking spray. Dust
surface with breadcrumbs.

4. Remove plastic wrap from milk mixture,
and stir in eggs, yolks, Parmigiano-Reggiano,
nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt and
pepper. Stir in carrot mixture. Fill cups or
mold with mixture, and place into roasting
pan.Transfer to oven, and fill pan with hot
water two-thirds of way up sides of cups
or mold.

5. Bake for 45 minutes for cups, about I
hour 15 minutes for mold, or until tooth-pick
inserted in center comes out dry. If
sformati start to brown too quickly, cover
with foil and continue cooking. Remove
from oven, and set aside to cool for 20
minutes.

6. Meanwhile, to make BasiI-Mascarpone
Cream: Blend mascarpone, lemon juice
and basil. Thin to desired consistency with
milk. Add salt and pepper, and set aside.

7. To serve, toss greens in bowl with olive
oil vinegar, salt and pepper. Run knife
around inside edges of molds, and turn
sformati out onto individual salad plates.
Garnish with greens and dollop of Basil-Mascarpone
Cream.

PER SERVING: 260 CAL; 8G PROT; 20G TOTAL
FAT (9G SAT. FAT); 14G CARB; 145MG CHOL;
340MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 6G SUGARS