Pie for dinner: the coziest winter dish is a savory treat

Nothing takes the chill off a winter's day like the aroma of a pie in the oven. As the author of a great big book on pie, it's no secret that these crust-and-filling delicacies are my passion. But since all 300 of those recipes were for desserts, it might come as a surprise that many of my favorite pies are the savory dinner kind. Put a slice of quiche in front of me, and I instantly start to salivate even before I take the first bite; serve me a thin, flat galette, and I'm a goner. Top-crust pies such as Shepherd's and Mexicali tickle my fancy too.

Why am I so smitten? For one, savory pies are always hearty dishes, so a simple salad is all you need to add. And even if they're not as speedy as scrambling up a block of tofu, they won't keep you in the kitchen all day. In fact, you can make the crust or filling a few hours or a day ahead, then throw together the rest when dinnertime nears. The following recipes are tried-and-true favorites that have fed friends and family over the years. And just like old friends, they will never let you down whet you need a reliable dinner companion.

MUSHROOM AND SPINACH
QUICHE

Serves 8

Quiche makes a comforting main dish
for a family supper or a casual dinner
party. Save time by making and baking
the wholesome pastry 24 to 48 hours
ahead of time. You can even prepare
the sauteed mixture in advance--just
refrigerate until needed.

Basic Pie Pastry Recipe, p. 71

Filling

2 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium-sized onion, halved and
  thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups thinly sliced mushroom caps
3 cups firmly packed baby spinach
1 clove garlic, minced (about 1 tsp.)
3 large eggs
1 cup milk, whole or reduced-fat
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. salt
1 1/2 cups grated Gruyere cheese

1. Prepare Basic Pie Pastry, and set aside
to rest 10 minutes. Grease 9 1/2-inch
deep-dish pie pan. Preheat oven to 400F.

2. Roll pastry into 12-inch circle
between two sheets of wax paper or
plastic wrap. Peel off top sheet; invert
pastry over pie pan. Peel off second
sheet, then tuck pastry into pan without
stretching it, pinching overhang into
an even edge. Chill 15 minutes. Smooth
sheet of aluminum foil over pastry (it
should fit like a glove); fill with dried
beans or rice. Bake 20 minutes.
Remove pan from oven; lift foil with
beans from pan. Using fork, pierce
pastry 6 or 8 times. Reduce oven to
375F, and bake 7 minutes. Cool on
wire rack. Leave oven on.

3. To make Filling: Heat oil in large
skillet over medium heat. Add onion,
and cook, stirring, 5 minutes.
Add mushrooms; cover, and cook
3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in spinach and garlic; cover,
and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until
spinach is wilted.

4. Lightly whisk eggs in mixing bowl.
Whisk in milk, mustard, pepper and salt.

5. Sprinkle 1/4 cup grated cheese over
bottom of pastry. Bake 2 to 3 minutes
to melt cheese.

6. Spread vegetable mixture in pastry
shell. Sprinkle with half of remaining
cheese. Slowly pour in egg mixture, then
sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake
40 to 45 minutes, or until golden brown
and slightly puffy. Transfer to wire rack,
and let cool 15 minutes before serving.

PER SERVING: 386 CAL; 13G PROT; 27G TOTAL FAT (6.5G SAT. FAT); 24G CARB; 105MG CHOL; 353MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 4G SUGARS

MEXICALI PIE

Serves 6

Here's a great recipe that was passed on
to me by my father-in-law, Clyde. He
uses ground beef, but this vegetarian
version swaps in Tex-Mex-flavored soy
crumbles. To make this a vegan dish,
simply replace the Cornbread Topping
with the Basic Pie Pastry, opposite:
Drape it over the filling, and tuck in
the sides just before baking.

Filling

2 Tbs. canola oil
1 medium-sized onion, chopped
  (about 1 cup)
1 Anaheim chile, seeded, chopped
2 cups frozen corn kernels, thawed
1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1 12-oz. pkg. Mexican-style soy
  crumbles
2 14.5-oz. cans diced tomatoes

Cornbread Topping

1 cup yellow cornmeal
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 Tbs. light brown sugar
1 1/4 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 large eggs, separated
1 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup canola oil
3 green onions, finely chopped
1 small jalapeno, seeded, finely
chopped

1. To make Filling: Heat oil in large
skillet over medium heat. Add onion,
and cook, stirring often, 5 to 6 minutes,
or until translucent. Add chile, and
cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in corn,
flour and soy crumbles, breaking up
with wooden spoon. Stir in tomatoes.
Bring to a simmer; cook 5 minutes.
Add salt to taste. (If seasoning is too
mild for you, add 1/2 tsp. or so each of
chili powder and cumin.)

2. Transfer mixture to greased 1 1/2-qt.
baking dish. Preheat oven to 400F.

3. To make Cornbread Topping:
Combine cornmeal, flour, brown sugar,
baking powder, salt and baking soda in
large bowl, and mix well; set aside.
Whisk egg yolks in separate bowl until
pale; whisk in buttermilk and oil. Set
aside. Beat egg whites in separate bowl
until soft peaks form.

4. Make well in dry ingredients, and
pour in buttermilk mixture. Mix just
until combined. Add green onions
and jalapeno. Fold in egg whites.
Pour over vegetable mixture.

5. Bake until topping is cooked through,
about 45 minutes. Cool 5 to 10 minutes
before serving.