Japanese for beginners: no sushi. Just easy home cooking that celebrates spring

Vegetarian Times, April, 2006 by Myra Kornfeld

If you think all Japanese food is either sushi or kaiseki--the multicourse ceremonial meals made of artful small dishes--think again. When it comes to everyday cooking in the East, meals are uncomplicated, easy and often centered around a single dish.

With cherry blossom season in full bloom from Kyoto to Washington, DC, it's the perfect time to discover the down-to-earth home cooking of the Japanese table, where every season is celebrated in vegetable-filled dishes. Right now, that means young leaves, shoots and sprouts, as well as snow peas and asparagus. Taking that cue, this menu combines traditional Japanese flavors with early spring ingredients in easy-to-prepare dishes.

In Japan, April is the time to pack up a bento box meal and take it to a hanami ("flower viewing") party in a grove of blossoming cherry trees. But even if you don't have a canopy of cherry blossoms to sit under, making these simple but delicious dishes is a great way to greet spring.

 SWEET AND SPICY NORI STRIPS Makes 18 pieces * Vegan Nori, the sheets of seaweed used to wrap sushi, is as versatile as it is delicious. Sweet, salty and spicy, these crispy bites make a satisfying snack and are great with cocktails. Or tuck them into a bowlful of Rice and Barley with Gingered Adzuki Beans (opposite page). 1/4 cup brawn rice syrup   3 Tbs. sesame oil or peanut oil   1 Tbs. clark sesame oil 1/4 tsp. cayenne   3 nori sheets     Coarse salt 1. Preheat oven to 350F. Line 2 baking sheets with foil or parchment paper. Combine rice syrup and both sesame oils in small bowl, and whisk to blend. Stir in cayenne. 2. Tear each nori sheet into three strips. Place strips on prepared baking sheets. Using pastry brush, thickly coat each strip with sesame-syrup mixture. (Whisk syrup mixture occasionally.) Sprinkle each strip with coarse salt. 3. Bake 10 minutes, remove from oven and let stand 10 minutes to crisp. Turn strips over, brush with sesame-syrup mixture and sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake 10 minutes, remove from oven and let stand 10 minutes to crisp. Break each strip in two to serve. PER SERVING: 44 CAL; 0G PROT; 3G TOTAL FAT (0.5G SAT. FAT); 4G CARS; 0MG CHOL; 16MG SOD; 0G FIBER; 2G SUGARS 

 CABBAGE AND SPROUT SALAD WITH SESAME-WASABI DRESSING Serves 4 * Vegan Wasabi gives a lively bite to this colorful salad. Either snow pea or sunflower sprouts (both available at well-stocked supermarkets) are equally good in this.   4 cups shredded napa cabbage     (about 1 small head)   2 cups snow pea sprouts or     sunflower sprouts 2 red radishes, halved and thinly     sliced (1/4 cup)   2 medium-size oranges 1/4 cup sesame seeds Sesame-Wasabi Dressing 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar   2 Tbs. mirin (sweet rice wine)   1 Tbs. Japanese soy sauce

        
    			
        
		
        
        		             
    	
	
    
    
    
    
  1 Tbs. dark sesame oil   1 tsp. wasabi powder (or to taste) 1/4 tsp. salt 1. Combine cabbage, sprouts and radishes in large bowl. Remove peel and all white pith from oranges with sharp paring knife. Cut segments free from membranes, then cut segments crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces, and add to bowl. 2. To make Sesame-Wasabi Dressing: Whisk all ingredients in bowl; pour over salad, and mix to wilt sprouts. Let stand 10 minutes, tossing occasionally. 3. Meanwhile, toast sesame seeds in dry skillet over medium heat about 3 minutes, or until golden and fragrant. Sprinkle sesame seeds over salad; serve. PER SERVING: 238 CAL; 9G PROT; 8G TOTAL FAT (0.5G SAT. FAT); 32G CARS; 0MG CHOL; 322MG SOD; 6G FIBER; 9G SUGARS 

 JAPANESE SPRING VEGETABLE RAGOOT Serves 4 * Vegan Rice wine vinegar and arrowroot are good substitutes if you can't find umeboshi vinegar (the liquid used for pickling Japanese plums) and kuzu (Japanese arrowroot).   2 Tbs. dark sesame oil 1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms,

        
    
    
    
    
    stems removed, caps thinly sliced     (4 cups)   2 medium-size carrots, cut on     diagonal into 1/2-inch slices (1 cup) 1/4 cup minced shallots 1/2 cup sake   1 Tbs. Japanese soy sauce 1/2 lb. asparagus spears, trimmed     and cut into 2-inch pieces (2 cups) 1/4 lb. snow peas, strings removed     (1 1/2 cups)   2 Tbs. kuzu (Japanese arrowroot)

        
    
    
    
    
    dissolved in 1/4 cup water   2 tsp. umeboshi vinegar 1. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add shiitakes, carrots and shallots; cook, stirring frequently, 8 to 10 minutes, or until mushrooms have released their juices. Add sake and soy sauce, stirring to scrape up any brown bits stuck to bottom of pan. Increase heat, and simmer rapidly, about 3 minutes, or until liquid is syrupy. 2. Stir in 2 1/2 cups water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes, or until liquid thickens. Add asparagus; simmer 3 to 5 minutes, or until tender. Stir in snow peas and kuzu, and cook, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes, or until liquid returns to a simmer and has thickened. 3. Remove pan from heat, and stir in vinegar. Ladle into shallow bowls, and serve with Rice and Barley with Gingered Adzuki Beans (opposite page) mounded in middle. PER SERVING: 200 CAL; 5G PROT; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 24G CARB; OMG CHOL; 162MG SOD; 5G FIBER; 7G SUGARS