A feast for the body and soul: many of the celebratory foods of the Muslim holy month are vegetarian - Ramadan - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, Jan, 1995 by Susan Jane Cheney

Most of us associate holidays with feasting, but Muslims celebrate Ramadan, the major Islamic holiday, with a month of daytime fasting. At the end of the month, however, happy celebrations with family and friends focus on eating, with many of the dishes being vegetarian.

Observed during the ninth month of the Islamic year, Ramadan begins in january this year. It starts when the moon first appears as a thin crescent and ends when a sliver of moon is sighted again, 29 or 30 days later.

Ramadan commemorates the gift of the Koran from God. Fasting during Ramadan is an exercise in self-control that is intended to stir genuine empathy and compassion for the poor and to promote spiritual renewal. Observant adult Muslims who are not pregnant and not suffering from an illness eat and drink nothing from dawn to sunset for the entire month.

The Islamic community is large and diverse. Though most prevalent in Africa, die Middle East and Southeast Asia, Muslims, whose numbers exceed one billion, inhabit almost every region of the world; in dose to 50 countries Muslims make up the majority of the population.

Regardless of where a Muslim lives, it is customary during Ramadan to break the daily fast slowly at sundown. A Middle Eastern Muslim might enjoy a few dates or olives, a Balkan Muslim a bit of bread and cheese. Later in the evening, they will both likely eat a large meal, perhaps featuring a hearty soup or a bean and vegetable stew, side dishes, grains and condiments. Jary, a north African vegetable soup; Demjeddera, a Palestinian lentil and rice dish; and Spicy Pakistani Potatoes and Cauliflower illustrate Ramadan's multicultural character. Nighttime meals are usually simple yet substantial, geared to providing nourishment for long stretches during the day. Carbohydrates (including sweets) are commonly featured because they're such good sources of fuel. Just before dawn, a Muslim might snack again, maybe on a little porridge, bread or fruit. Because Ramadan occurs at a different time each year, dishes vary seasonally as well as culturally.

The truly festive aspect of Ramadan occurs when the new moon is sighted and the fast is broken. The days following the new moon, called Eid-ul-Fitr (the spelling varies) are fined with feasting and visiting relatives and friends. The celebratory dishes and pastries are typically richer and fancier than those served during the previous month. Sheer Korma Vermicelli from Pakistan and Indonesian peanut-sauced pecel provide perfect examples of special Eid dishes.

Though Islamic law strictly prohibits pork and alcohol, discourages overindulgence and advocates healthful eating, it doesn't spell out a specific diet. While meats other than pork are allowed, scarcity sometimes limits their use to seasoning rather than the main course. Some Muslims are vegetarians by choice, others. by necessity.

The following dishes were created with input and guidance from Karen Sheikh of Minneapolis, and Brahim Hadj-Moussa, owner and chef of a wonderful restaurant called The Barbary Fig in St. Paul, Minn.

Jary

Vegetable soup is popular Ramadan fare in north African countries. This Algerian version is thickened slightly with cracked wheat. It can be on the table in about 45 minutes.

1 1/2 tsp. olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 3 to 4 cloves garlic, pressed or

minced 3/4 tsp. paprika Pinch cayenne, or to taste 1/4 cup tomato puree 4 cups vegetable and/or garbanzo

stock 1/2 tsp. salt, plus more to taste 1/4 cup fine cracked wheat 1/2 cup coarsely chopped and loosely

packed fresh parsley 1/2 cup coarsely chopped and loosely

packed fresh cilantro 1/2 cup coarsely chopped and loosely

packed fresh mint leaves 1/2 cup cooked garbanzo beans 3 to 4 tsp. lemon juice, or to taste Salt to taste

Heat oil. in a heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add onion; saute until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, paprika and cayenne; cook 1 to 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. Add tomato puree and stock. Bring to a simmer and stir in salt and cracked wheat.

Cover, reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until cracked wheat is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Transfer soup to blender or food processor. Add parsley, cilantro and mint; process until soup is almost smooth. Return soup to pot, stir in garbanzo beans and reheat. Add lemon juice and salt to taste. Serves 4.

PER SERVING: 113 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 2G FAT; 19G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 281MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Couscous Berbere

This dish generally has five vegetables and five spices. There are differences in its specific makeup, but olive oil, onion, garlic, garbanzos or fava beans, raisins and almonds are constants.

1 cup couscous 1/4 tsp. salt, or to taste 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. olive oil 1 1/2 cups boiling vegetable stock or

water 1 medium onion, chopped 3 to 4 cloves garlic, pressed or

minced 1 cup finely sliced green cabbage 1 medium carrot, sliced 1 medium sweet potato, peeled

and sliced 1/2 to 1 cup cubed turnip (1 small) 1/2 to 1 cup chopped fennel bulb