The Uncheese Cookbook. - book reviews

Vegetarian Times, Jan, 1995 by Bryanna Clark Grogan

Many vegetarians have been waiting a long time for a book like this one. Author Joanne Stepaniak demonstrates how to indulge in the rich, creamy taste and mouthfeel of cheese without the cholesterol and fat. She offers 23 recipes for what she calls "cheezes" and more than 130 "cheezey" dips, soups, fondues, sauces, breads, entrees and even desserts (such as a delectable Chocolate Almond Cheezecake).

The cheezes are very quick and easy to make. They are firm in texture and melt well, which is fortunate because their mild but definitely cheesy flavors are more pronounced when melted.

Many of the recipes call for cashews and/or tahini, a paste made from sesame seeds, but the results are all much lower in fat than an equivalent amount of dairy cheese. For instance, one ounce of real Colby cheese contains 9.1 grams (g) of fat, while one ounce of Stepaniak's Colby Cheeze, made of cashews, pimientos, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, tahini, agar and spices, contains only 1g. (Stepaniak includes a convenient comparison chart. She makes frequent use of tofu and nutritional yeast, and I was impressed by her innovative use of cooked beans to create creamy, low-fat results. Garbanzo Gruyere, made mostly of chickpeas, is delicious melted on pumpernickel toast. If you or your kids hanker for processed cheese spreads, try the Gee Whiz Spread, a flavorful spread made mostly of canned Great Northern beans (cooked small white beans also work well). Add some non-dairy milk, and the spread becomes a creamy sauce for vegetables or pasta.

My family and some unsuspecting friends and relatives (mostly non-vegetarians) enjoyed the vegan versions of some favorite recipes we hadn't had in years, like Cheezy Corn Spoon Bread, Cheeze and Bread and Tomato Souffle (also known as a strata or bread fondue), and Quiche Laverne, steamed cauliflower in a creamy cheeze sauce baked in a grated potato crust. The Chedda Biscuits, made with no added fat, are tasty and light, a great accompaniment to any soup or stew. Aunt Shayna's Potato Cakes, made primarily of rolled oats, instant potato flakes and grated carrots, are unexpectedly delicious and fat-free.

This inexpensive little book belongs on the shelf of anyone who wants to eat less cheese, anyone even contemplating a switch to a vegan diet, or anyone with lactose intolerance or a milk allergy or sensitivity. It's certain to inspire you to create a non-dairy version of your favorite cheesy delights.

THE BOOK PUBLISHING CO., SUMMERTOWN, TN., ISBN 0-913990-42-6. PAPERBACK, 189 PP., $11.95.