Now we're rollin': an old favorite - the cabbage roll -loses the meat - includes recipes - Recipe Redux - Column

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1995 by Susan Jane Cheney

THERE'S SOMETHING especially appealing about self-contained entrees like stuffed vegetables. Cabbage rolls, for example, are neat, pleasingly plump little packages that make a satisfying meal when drizzled with sauce and served with a crisp salad.

Traditionally, cabbage leaves are filled with seasoned ground meat (usually beef) or a ground meat and rice mixture, and then topped with tomato sauce. In remaking the rolls, our primary objective was to find a meat substitute. We also created a new topping because tomato sacue tends to overpower the flavors of a meatless filling.

The meat is easily replaced with tofu. When mashed, it also serves to bind the other filling ingredients without the addition of eggs. (For even more flavor, you can substitute flavored tofu.)

Cabbage rolls are especially popular in Eastern Europe, so we looked to the cuisines of the region for other fillings. Buckwheat is indigenous to the area, and buckwheat groats (commonly called kasha) team with other natives of that region, such as onions, mushrooms, caraway and dill in our revised rolls.

There are many other possible filling combinations; experiment with beans or tempeh as alternatives to tofu or fruits (especially apples and pears). The sesame sauce that replaces the traditional tomato sauce is quick to whisk together as the cabbage rolls cook. Drizzle it over the top of the rolls for a creamy finish.

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls After Redux

Cabbage rolls:

12 large cabbage leaves

2 Tbs. sesame oil

2 medium yellow onions, diced

2 medium carrots, diced

4 cups sliced fresh mushrooms (about 12 oz.)

Pepper to taste

1 1/2 tsp. caraway seeds

2 tsp. dried dill weed (about 2 Tbs. fresh)

1 lb. medium-firm tofu, mashed

1 egg (optional)

2 Tbs. lemon juice

3 Tbs. mellow barley miso (see glossary), salt

or soy sauce to taste

4 cups cooked kasha (see glossary)

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Sesame sauce:

2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. lemon juice

2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. mellow barley miso, salt or

soy sauce to taste

6 Tbs. tahini (see glossary)

1 to 1 1/2 cups vegetable stock

2 Tbs. minced fresh parsley or dill (optional)

CABBAGE ROLLS: Steam cabbage leaves until pliable but still bright green, about 3 minutes; set aside. (Reserve steaming water.)

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet. Add onions and carrots; saute until carrots are just tender, about 5 minutes. Add remaining oil, mushrooms, pepper, caraway and dill; saute until mushrooms appear moist, about 3 minutes. Stir in tofu; remove skillet from heat.

Beat egg, if using, in large bowl. Add lemon juice and miso; whisk together. Stir in kasha, parsley and tofu mixture.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Divide mixture into 12 equal portions. Spoon a portion in center of each cabbage leaf; fold in sides, roll up and secure with toothpick if necessary. Arrange rolls in oiled baking dish, seam side down. Pour in reserved steaming water to a depth of about 1/4 inch. Cover and bake until cabbage leaves are tender and filling is firm, about 45 minutes.

SESAME SAUCE: Whisk together lemon juice, miso and tahini. Gradually whisk in stock to desired consistency. Add parsley or dill if desired. (Sauce will thicken on standing, so add a bit more liquid before serving.)

To serve, spoon sesame sauce over cabbage rolls. Serves 6.

PER SERVING WITH 2 TABLESPOONS SAUCE: 377 CAL.; 16G PROT.; 13G FAT; 45G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 611MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN/OVO-LACTO

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls Before Redux

12 large cabbage leaves

2 Tbs. butter or margarine

1 large onion, chopped

16-oz. can tomato sauce

2 tsp. light brown sugar

2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

1 1/2 lbs. lean ground beef, browned

and drained

1 cup cooked rice

1 slice white bread, crumbled

1 egg

1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1 small clove garlic, crushed

IN A COVERED 12-inch skillet, cook cabbage leaves in 1 inch of boiling water; drain and set aside.

In same skillee, heat butter or margarine over medium heat. Add onion; cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add tomato sauce, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; mix well and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; divide into 12 equal portions.

Place 1 portion of meat mixture in center of each cabbage leaf. Fold sides of leaf toward center; then, from one narrow edge of leaf, roll up leaf. Place filled rolls in sauce in skillet, seam side down. Cover and simmer over medium heat 45 minutes. Serves 6.

PER SERVING: 408 CAL.; 26G PROT.; 24G FAT; 20G CARB.; 123MG CHOL.; 1,370MG SOD.; 4G FIBER.

GLOSSARY

Kasha: Hulled, crushed and roasted buckwheat. Also called buckwheat groats. Available in natural food stores and in supermarkets, usually in kosher food section.

Miso: A salty paste made from cooked, aged soybeans and sometimes grains. Thick and spreadable, it's used as a flavoring and for soup bases. Darker varieties tend to be stronger flavored and saltier than lighter varieties.

Tahini: A thick, smooth paste made from ground sesame seeds.