Simple, savory stocks - vegetarian soup stocks - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1995 by Steven Raichlen

FROM PARIS, FRANCE, to Paris, Texas, stock is the cornerstone of fine cooking. Easy and inexpensive to prepare, a good, hearty stock serves as a rich base to an infinite variety of soups, stews, and sauces.

Many people are intimidated by the notion of making their own stock, but in fact there are few dishes that are easier to prepare. With a few exceptions, all there is to do is simmer vegetables and herbs in water for several hours to extract their flavor, then strain. You needn't rigidly follow a recipe or even use the same ingredients each time, and there are no tricky cooking techniques to master. And almost any vegetable or vegetable trimming is a candidate.

There are only a few things to remember: Strong-flavored vegetables, such as broccoli, brussels sprouts and rutabagas, should be used in moderation. Asparagus stalks will turn a stock green, so use them in very limited quantities. Also avoid beets, unless you want a red stock. And if it's a hearty, brown stock you're after, roast the vegetables in the oven before making the stock.

Herbs are as important as vegetables in creating a good stock. The traditional mix is a French bouquet garni of bay leaves, thyme sprigs and parsley. To these you can add a dozen black peppercorns and a couple of whole cloves and allspice berries. (Tie these ingredients into a neat bundle in cheesecloth to prevent the spices from floating free. If you don't have cheesecloth on hand, wrap the herbs in a piece of aluminum foil and perforate the bundle with a fork.) A spoonful of miso or soy sauce also can greatly enrich a stock, but go easy on salt or it may overwhelm the final product.

The right spices and seasonings give stocks depth of character. In the following recipes, you'll find a Mediterranean stock flavored with saffron, fennel and vermouth, as well as an Asian stock spiced with ginger, Szechuan peppercorns and star anise. I've also included recipes that use stock as an ingredient.

The secret to clear stock is skimming off the foam that may float to the top after the first boil. Continue skimming the stock as it simmers. The last step is to strain the stock into a large bowl; let it cool to room temperature and then refrigerate until it's cold. Putting hot stock directly into the refrigerator or freezer can give it a sour taste. I like to freeze stock in 1- and 2-cup measures so that I always have pre-measured amounts on hand. Stock will keep for several months in the freezer, although if you use it as much as I do, you'll need to make a fresh batch every week.

Mediterranean Vegetable Stock

Saffron, fennel and red bell peppers give this stock a Mediterranean accent. Use it for dishes of Spanish, Italian, Provencal and even North African origin.

2 bay leaves

4 sprigs thyme or 1 tsp. dried thyme

20 black peppercorns

1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely

chopped

1 leek, coarsely chopped

6 cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

2 carrots, coarsely chopped

1 red bell pepper, coarsely chopped

1/2 small or 1/4 large fennel bulb, coarsely

chopped, or 1 tsp. fennel seeds

2 tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves and stems

1/2 cup flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves

and stems

2 strips orange zest

1 cup dry white vermouth

1/2 cup orange juice

1/4 tsp. saffron, soaked in 1 Tbs. hot

water

About 8 cups water

Salt (optional)

TIE BAY LEAVES, thyme and peppercorns into a cheesecloth bag, or wrap in a piece of foil and pierce with a fork. Combine with all ingredients except salt in a large pot and bring to a boil.

Skim any foam from surface, reduce heat and simmer stock, uncovered, until vegetables are very tender, about 1 hour. Add water as necessary to keep vegetables covered, and skim foam as necessary. (Alternatively, cook stock in pressure cooker 15 minutes.)

Strain stock, pressing vegetables with back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. For a thicker, richer stock, remove herb bundle and zest and puree vegetables in a blender or food mill, then add to liquid and strain. Salt to taste. Makes 5 to 6 cups.

VARIATION: To make a Mediterranean vegetable soup, discard herb bundle; puree broth and vegetables in a blender. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Makes 8 cups soup.

PER CUP: 33 CAL.; 0.8G PROT.; 0.1G FAT; 7G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 21MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN

Basic Vegetable Stock

Here is an all-purpose stock that's tasty and easy to prepare.

1 large onion (with skin), quartered

2 leeks, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 stalks celery, cut into 1-inch

pieces

2 tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 head garlic (with peel), cut

in half

2 quarts chopped vegetables or

vegetable trimmings (see

helpful hint)

2 Tbs. tomato paste

Bouquet garni (see helpful hint)

1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs,

including basil, oregano,

chives and/or parseley stems

4 quarts water

Freshly ground black pepper

Salt or soy sauce to taste

COMBINE ALL INGREDIENTS except pepper, and salt or soy sauce in large pot; bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that rises to top. Immediately reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until well-flavored, 1 to 2 hours. Add water as necessary to keep vegetables covered. Skim as necessary.