Cache-Cache. - Aspen, Colorado - restaurant reviews

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1995 by Wyatt Townley, Roderick Townley

Rumor has it that when Cache-Cache restaurant opened its doors eight years ago in an out-of-the-way corner of Aspen, Colo., people had a hard time finding the place. Its name, which means "hide and seek" in French, seemed appropriate. Several renovations and expansions later the secret is definitely out--so much so that Cache-Cache is one of the most popular eateries in town.

The decor is casual chic, with fine photographs and art deco sconces against a background of peach and beige. The night we visited, Manager Jodi Larner led us to a table by an open window. The splash of a fountain in the courtyard mingled with soft samba music over the speakers to create an ambience of civilized indulgence.

Cache-Cache is not exclusively vegetarian, but it offers some highly imaginative vegetarian fare; chef and co-owner Philippe Mollicchi will be happy to adapt the menu to customers' wishes. Be forewarned: You will be tempted to spend a lot at Cache-Cache since everything is a la carte. But the prices are moderate by Aspen's standards, with main courses ranging from $12 to $20.

The food we ordered could be described as symphonic, with themes and variations repeated from course to course. The tomato/coriander refrain, for instance, first appeared in an appetizer, Onion Tart Strudel ($8), which combined delicately caramelized onions with olives and capers in a flaky pastry surrounded by a moat of tomato coriander sauce. The theme later reverberated in a main course, the Tian of Crisp Risotto Cake (more about that later).

Mushrooms were another common ingredient, as in the Wild Mushroom Tatin over Red Pepper Coulis ($9), an appetizer so rich and so artfully presented we lingered over it as long as we could make it last--which wasn't long enough.

The salads at Cache-Cache make refreshingly liberal use of field greens. The Warm Chevre Salad ($8) surrounds a dollop of nut-encrusted goat cheese with chopped endive on a bed of radicchio and as many as 10 different greens, fragrant with balsamic vinaigrette. In a delicious example of gilding the lily, Chef Mollicchi adds roasted tomatoes and toast slices spread with pesto. As with all of Cache-Cache's dishes, the portions are large and brightly presented on large white dinner plates--no dinky salad dishes here--so that it's quite possible to make a satisfying meal out of an appetizer and salad.

We soldiered on to the entrees. The Polenta Tart with Asparagus, Pesto and Fresh Mozzarella ($17) is light and savory; the tart picked up the mushroom and tomato themes from earlier dishes, but this time the tomatoes were blanched, then cooked in white wine. Delightful!

The cylindrical Tian of Crisp Risotto Cake ($17) made an especially imposing dish, the braised rice formed into a sort of Tower of Pisa, with sauteed spinach at the bottom, wild mushrooms throughout, and ratatouille on top. The effect was completed by spoonfuls of savory tomato coriander coulis. Go easy on the appetizers if you're planning to tackle this one.

The desserts were on the same high level as the other courses. A warm Apple Tatin topped with gelato ($6.50) proved a light delight. The Chocolate Grand Marnier Torte ($6.60) was rich and dense, and the topping of fresh raspberries and strawberries provided a perfect finishing touch.