The Complete Vegetable Cookbook. - book reviews

Vegetarian Times, April, 1995 by Nikki Goldbeck

THIS BOOK is chock-full of information on the 40 vegetables it features. Bodger reveals everything you need to know to buy, store and handle each vegetable, and provides several recipes for each, including an "express" recipe that's fast and easy and a more elegant "company's coming" recipe. She also gives plenty of advice on pantry ingredients, cooking, seasoning and saucing tips, garnishes and more.

The recipes are very creative. For Turnips Rosanna, turnip slices are spirallayered in a cake pan, covered with a rummolasses-ginger sauce, weighted down and baked, then served in wedges. Spicy Browned Brussels Sprouts and Carrots were so delicious that they were enthusiastically eaten by people who ranked Brussels sprouts as their least-liked vegetable. Collards with West Indian Pepper-and-Lime Sauce also went over very well. Equally enticing, and delightfully easy to prepare, were Asparagus with Sesame-Ginger Sauce, Sweet-and-Sour Lentils, Cannelini with Escarole Puree, and Thai-Style Eggplant with a delightful peanut sauce.

The recipes are easy to follow and accompanied by useful descriptions. Many come with menu suggestions, usually pairing them with meat dishes. But most of Bodger's recipes would make fine, nourishing meals simply served with an unadorned grain or bean dish.

Although this isn't a vegetarian cookbook, most of the animal ingredients can be easily omitted, and at least a third of the recipes are vegan. And though Bodger frequently calls for various wines and liquors, other liquids can easily replace them. There are no enticing photographs (though the illustrations are helpful) or nutritional breakdowns, but these omissions don't detract from the book's overall quality. With dozens of cookbooks devoted to vegetable preparation on my shelf, I'm frequently drawn to this one for ideas. And while I often make ingredient substitutions, I haven't been disappointed with any of the outcomes.