Earthly Delights: Everyday Vegetarian Cooking. - book reviews

Vegetarian Times, May, 1995 by Jeannine Johnson Perriseau

If you have ever spent any frustrating time perusing bookstore shelves in search of a sophisticated and glamorous, yet practical vegetarian cookbook that is as beautiful on a coffee table as it is helpful in the kitchen, look no further than Earthly Delights: Everyday Vegetarian Cooking.

Printed on high-gloss, thick-stock paper, Earthly Delights contains more than 750 recipes and 80 elegant full-page color photographs. What's more, half of the pages are devoted to a comprehensive guide on how to make your own kitchen basics, including sprouted seeds and grains, breakfast mixes, yogurt, buttermilk, fresh cheeses, pasta, flavored vinegars and oils, preserves and much more. The final chapter addresses how to choose a balanced diet, with down-to-earth advice on eating for health and pleasure.

Author Vikki Leng lives in Melbourne, Australia and is a trained home economics teacher who has turned to teaching vegetarian cooking classes, producing vegetarian cooking videos and appearing on Australian children's television shows to promote vegetarianism. Perhaps because she knows what it's like to be busy (she has three children), Leng has streamlined cooking preparations wherever possible. She's also kept fat to a minimum and made generous use of whole grains, fresh produce and tofu.

The biggest downside of this book is one that affects many cookbook imports: The ingredients and recipes do not always translate smoothly into American equivalents. Some recipes seem puzzling (a Tofu Hummus that does not include any chickpeas), while others may call for ingredients not generally available, such as bocconcini cheese and hijiki, a Japanese dried sea vegetable. These strange recipes are few and far between, however.

Leng's talents shine when she focuses on simple preparations and clean, fresh flavors. Most of the recipes call for no more than six ingredients and take no more than 20 minutes to prepare; they are indeed geared for "everyday vegetarian cooking," as the title promises. The refreshing Melon and Ginger Salad includes sweet juicy melon, preserved ginger, lemon juice and pine nuts. Rosemary Potatoes get a sprinkling of oil, rosemary, parsley and black pepper while Roasted Red Onions are simply prepared with black pepper, olive oil and a little raspberry vinaigrette. Antipasto Pancakes are whipped together with whole wheat self-rising flour, feta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil.

Leng's foreign interpretations are a little less reliable. Thai Style Vegetables tasted more like Indian curried vegetables. Nori Wrapped Sweet Potato, sushi-like rolls filled with sweet potatoes flavored with sesame oil and honey, were too soft and mushy in texture and uninspired in flavor.

One of the book's strongest chapters is on confections. For families with children who enjoy sweets and snacks, there is a treasure trove of great ideas that take a minimum of ingredients and little time to prepare. Sesame Brittle, Butterscotch Almonds, Apricot Muesli Bars, Fruit Salad Bars, Rum and Raisin Rock, and Chocolate Raisin Balls are all extraordinarily simple to prepare, can be packed in lunches or doled out after school, and are more healthful than cakes, cookies, chips and candy.

All in all, Earthly Delights fills in a big gap on the vegetarian cookbook shelf Though eggs and dairy products are included in many recipes, there is still an ample selection for vegans. Another plus: It is elegant enough to stand alone as a gift for any occasion.

THORSONS PUBLISHING, SAN FRANCISCO, CA. ISBN 0-207-18443-7. HARDCOVER, 352 PP., 32.