How sweet they are: alternatives to white sugar abound with flavor - includes recipes, glossary, and related article on using alternative sweeteners

Vegetarian Times, June, 1995 by Susan Jane Cheney

White sugar has been singled out as one of those "evil" foods that, along with fat, should be relegated to once-in-a-while status. Sugar in any form may promote tooth decay and crowd out more nutritious foods in a diet. And excessive sugar consumption isn't good for anyone, particularly those with obesity, diabetes, hypoglycemia or heart disease. The relationship between sugar and other conditions, such as headaches, hyperactivity and immunity, is less clear, but there's considerable evidence that sugar sensitivity can take numerous forms.

Whatever your opinion about white sugar, you might wonder if "natural" sweeteners are better for you. Is there really a significant difference, or any difference at all? And how do they taste and when should you use them?

To answer these questions, it helps to understand that sugar is sugar is sugar, whether it is white sugar, maple syrup or barley malt. Though some sweeteners contain a measure of complex carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals, there are far more wholesome sources for these nutrients. And, with the possible exception of molasses, there's no advantage to one sweetener or another.

It also helps to understand how our bodies process sugar. Sugars are simple carbohydrates: chemical compounds composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms in a 1-2-1 ratio. Glucose, fructose and galactose are single sugars or monosaccharides. Double sugars, or disaccharides, have more complex arrangements: Sucrose includes one molecule each of glucose and fructose; lactose has one glucose and one galactose molecide; and maltose has two glucose molecules. Polysaccharides, complex carbohydrates such as grains, consist of long glucose chains, plus fiber and other nutrients. Digestive enzymes reduce all carbohydrates to glucose, commonly called blood sugar, for absorption.

Whether simple or complex, the primary dietary function of any carbohydrate is energy. Both quantity and quality play a role in the body's capacity to effectively metabolize sugar. The former is pretty straightforward: Ingesting large quantities of simple carbohydrates on a regular basis strains our systems. The effect of sweetener quality is less clear cut, but a closer look at various sweeteners may help you make more informed choices.

Processed from sugar cane or sugar beets, white table sugar is 99.5 to 99.9 percent pure sucrose. It lacks vitamins, minerals, fiber, protein and trace elements. Powdered or confectioner's sugar is simply pulverized white sugar. Brown sugar is white sugar with some burnt white sugar or molasses mixed back in for color and taste. A 1948 law requires all "sugar" sold in the United States to be 96 percent pure sucrose, so light brown raw sugar (also known as turbinado sugar) is by law compositionally close to white sugar. Aside from the empty calories of sugar and its variants, vegetarians should also remember that refining procedures sometimes include filtering crystallized sugar through charred animal bones.

Other sweeteners offer different flavors, textures and perhaps a slight nutritional edge compared to white sugar, though availability and price may be limiting factors.

Amasake: This age-old, Oriental whole grain sweetener is made by culturing cooked rice with fermented rice called koji. Enzymes convert the rice starch to simpler forms, mainly maltose and glucose. Besides subtle sweetness, amasake contributes some leavening power and a wonderfully moist texture to baked goods. Buy prepared amasake or make it at home from rice and packaged koji.

Barley malt syrup: This viscous, medium brown liquid sweetener is extracted from roasted, sprouted whole barley. It has a molasses-like character, and is about half as sweet as white sugar (unless corn syrup has been added for extra sweetening; check the label). It's perfect in baked goods when you don't want a pronounced sweetness. Pure barley malt contains about half complex carbohydrates and half maltose, plus a small amount of glucose, vitamins and minerals. Refrigerate if you use it slowly or the room is warm; otherwise, it's likely to ferment. Also comes in powdered form.

Carob powder: This natural sweetener is usually thought of as a chocolate substitute, but the pulverized pods of the locust tree are nearly 50 percent sugar. It's most often combined with another sweetener in recipes. Carob is rich in calcium and other minerals, B vitamins and vitamin A.

Corn syrup: An inexpensive, clear, somewhat viscous syrup that is made from chemically refined cornstarch. Corn syrup is composed of at least 90 percent simple carbohydrates. In its purest form, it contains only glucose, but sucrose is usually added to bolster sweetness. Otherwise, its flavor is devoid of character.

Date sugar: This sugary-textured substance, consisting of ground, dried pitted dates, is about two-thirds as sweet as sugar. It contains iron, potassium, and other minerals and vitamins. Use it as you would brown sugar on cereal and in baking. You may want to blend date sugar to a finer texture or dissolve it in liquid for some purposes. Store in a cool, dry cupboard.