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Behold the berry - includes recipes and glossary

Vegetarian Times,  July, 1995  by Yamuna Devi

Few foods are as delectable as fresh, juicy summer berries; their fragrance, taste and beauty provide a feast for the senses. Some of us look forward to plump blackberries sprinkled on cereal or yogurt; others dream of rich desserts such as blueberry pie or strawberry shortcake. A few of my favorite ways to use berries are in salads and salad dressings, cooked chutneys and fresh salsas, grain dishes, soups and quick desserts.

The most popular summer berries are strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Depending on where you live, if you shop off the beaten path in produce stands or farmer's markets, you may run across loganberries, huckleberries, mulberries, boysenberries, youngberries or olallieberries. Many of these berries are interchangeable; substitute if you can't find the ones called for in the recipes that follow. just a few tips, though:

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* Berries don't stand up well to shipping and they spoil rapidly, so buy berries from local growers whenever possible.

* Wash your berries right before use. Never wash before refrigerating (excess moisture causes mildew).

* Berries should be used within a day or two of picking or purchase.

* Berries can be frozen. They will be soggy upon thawing, but still tasty for cooking and baking.

Coucous Pilaf with

Yellow Raspberries

A little firmer than red or black raspberries yellow raspberries bring this pilaf to life.

Vinaigrette:

1/3 cup toasted pecan halves (see helpful hint) 2 Tbs. lemon juice 2 Tbs. orange juice 2 Tbs. pecan, walnut or olive oil 2 claps yellow or red raspberries (see note)

Pilaf: 3 cups (12 oz.) cooked warm or room-temperature couscous or other grain (see variation) 1 cucumber, seeded and diced 1/2 cup chopped fresh mint, or to taste 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley 1 tsp. toasted coriander seeds (see helpful hint) Salt and pepper to taste

Vinaigrette: Coarsely chop 1/2 the pecans; set aside, Combine remaining pecans, juice, oil and 1 cup berries in blender; process until- emulsified.

Pilaf: In a mixing bowl, combine couscous, cucumber, mint, parsley and coriander seeds; toss to mix. Fold in vinaigrette and reserved pecans. Garnish with remaining berries. Serves 4.

Helpful hint: To toast pecans, spread on a baking tray. Bake in a 350-degree oven until toasted and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. To toast coriander seeds, heat in a nonstick skillet until dark.

Variation: Instead of couscous, use cooked bulgur, wheat berries or barley.

Note: Red raspberries work equally well, but they might turn couscous pink. PER SERVING: 322 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 14G FAT; 44G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 145MG SOD.; 8G FIBER, VEGAN

Belgian Endive and

Blackberry Salad

For a memorable, French-inspired meal, serve with a bean cassoulet and rustic bread.

Dressing: Juice of 1 lime Juice of 1 orange 3 Tbs. honey 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard 4 Tbs. walnut oil Pinch paprika Pinch ground mustard Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salad: 4 heads Belgian endive 4 to 6 oz. mache (see glossary) or watercress 1 apple 1 cup fresh blackberries, red currants or loganberries 1/3 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnut halves (see helpful hint)

Dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together juices, honey and mustard. Add remaining ingredients; whisk to emulsify. (Can be made several hours in advance; cover and refrigerate until use.)

Salad: Trim base of endive; remove 16 outer leaves and set aside. Slice remaining endive crosswise about 1/4-inch thick. In a large salad bowl, combine sliced endive and mache or watercress. Core and julienne apple; toss with greens. Drizzle with most of dressing; toss.

Divide endive mixture among 4 salad plates. Arrange 4 endive leaves around each mound of salad greens, and sprinkle with walnuts and berries. Drizzle remaining vinaigrette over salads. Makes 4 generous servings.

Helpful Hint: To toast walnuts, bake in a 350-degree oven 8 to 10 minutes, or until fragrant. Cool. PER SERVING: 231 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 16G FAT; 23G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 107MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN HONEY)

Russian Berry Gratin

This is a light version of a rich Russian dessert, made with yogurt instead of sour cream to reduce the fat and calories. Use any available sweet berry, alone or in combination.

5 cups raspberries, thawed if frozen 1 cup nonfat vanilla yogurt 1/4 cup brown sugar Mint sprigs for garnish

Preheat Broiler. Divide berries among 4 individual gratin or ovenproof dishes. (Slice berries if they are large-sized.) Top each with 1/4 cup yogurt; sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Broil until sugar melts and caramelizes, about 2 minutes. Garnish with mint. Makes 4 servings. PER SERVING: 144 CAL.; 5 G PROT.; 1G FAT; 31G CARB.; 1 MG CHOL.; 52MG SOD.; 1OG FIBER. LACTO

Lee's Loganberry

Soup

You can substitute almost any berry for the loganberries in this soup.

5 cups loganberries or berries of your choice 2 cups water 2-cups orange juice 1/4 cup honey 1/2 tsp. cardamom

Mint sprigs and orange zest (see glossary) for garnishing

In a saucepan, combine 4 cups berries and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Pour through a sieve; press gently with back of spoon to remove seeds. Stir in juice, honey and cardamom. Cover and chill at least 2 hours. Ladle chilled soup into bowls. Garnish with remaining berries, mint and zest. Makes 4 servings. PER SERVING: 213 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 1G FAT; 53G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 9G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)