Foods From Mother Earth: A Basic Cookbook for Young Vegetarians . - and Anybody Else - book reviews

Vegetarian Times, August, 1995 by Judy Krizmanic

VEGETARIANISM has become very popular among teens and preteens. But since it usually isn't so popular among their meateating parents, one of the first lessons young vegetarians learn is that they may have to cook a few things for themselves.

There are countless vegetarian books to turn to for guidance, but very few are written for an audience of 12-year-olds who may never have turned on an oven. Foods From Mother Earth provides that friendly introduction to the world of meatless cooking for the young beginner. The authors provide a quick-reading introduction to some vegetarian nutrition and cooking basics. I particularly like the section titled "How to Do This and That," filled with handy tips on such topics as adapting recipes, experimenting with herbs ("Use only a pinch, but roll the pinch between your fingers to release the oils."), and chopping onions. The authors explain everything on a very basic level without treating their audience like, well, kids.

The recipes are divided into three categories: What You Can Cook on Top of the Stove, What You Can Cook in the Oven and What You Can Make Nowhere Near the Stove. The recipes in these sections are then divided into Breakfast, Everything Else (Lunch, Supper and Snacks) and Dessert. This whimsical organization of the recipes is a bit confusing; there are some breakfasts on page 15, some on page 57 and more on page 95. Fortunately, all recipes are listed by category in an index in the back of the book.

I recently spent two years interviewing vegetarian teens around the country for my own work. When I asked what appealed to them in a recipe, the most common answer was, "It's gotta be easy." These recipes fit that description. Nearly all the ingredients are familiar supermarket items (save the occasional spoonful of tahini or splash of tamari). Directions are short and simple. And best of all, the resulting dishes have great kid appeal: pancakes, muffins, pasta salads, quesadillas, soups, pizzas, casseroles and a variety of side dishes. They're familiar foods, and that's important. Most kids I've met say they would rather not be eating Kelp Surprise while their families or friends are eating burgers or spaghetti with meatballs.

But simple and familiar as the dishes are, they aren't bland or boring. Cold Sesame Noodles have a nice toasted sesame taste. Carrot and Pasta Soup, made with only four ingredients, is hearty and flavorful. Chick Pea and Artichoke Hearts Salad is pleasantly zesty.

Vegan teens, however, are going to be disappointed with the heavy use of eggs and dairy products. More than one-third of the 95 recipes, including nearly every breakfast item and baked good, call for eggs or egg whites, and more than half of the recipes call for dairy, mostly in the form of butter. The substitution chart in the back of the book will help with some of these problems, but it isn't sufficient. For example, the authors list only applesauce as an egg substitute (which won't work for all recipes) and don't mention that you can substitute margarine for butter, and soymilk (now sold in many supermarkets) for milk.

Nonetheless, this compact little resource guide, filled with basic recipes for young cooks, will be much appreciated by teens who are ready to take charge of their portion of the cooking.

SHAWANGUNK PRESS, WAPPINGERS FALLS, N.Y., ISBN 1-885482-02-7. PAPERBACK, 118 PP., $9.95.