A Canadian Noel: holidays up north have a warmth of their own - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, Dec, 1995 by Bryanna Clark Grogan

It is Christmas Eve--a dear, cold, star-filled night. Families hurry home from midnight Mass to gather with relatives and friends for the reveillon (REV-e-yawn) feast. The children are excited because they will be allowed to open their presents and stay up late. If they can stay awake after the feast (reveillon means to stay awake), they will join the adults in traditional songs and dances.

This is Christmas Eve in Quebec. Centuries-old traditions from France have mingled with New World foods and the customs of English-speaking Canadians to produce a unique holiday. Along with Tartelettes Au Sucre (sugar pie) you might be served shortbread Ecossais (Scottish shortbread) or Le Plum Pouding.

French-Canadian cuisine always has been heavy, given the harsh winters in Quebec and the lack of fresh vegetables before refrigeration was common. The availability of fresh fruits and vegetables year-round has led to a new emphasis on lighter, fresher foods.

Young chefs such as Dominique Guilbeault, who runs Le Bocage in the Eastern Townships of Quebec with her husband, Michel, might serve a chilled vegetable terrine instead of the more typical cretons (potted pork, which is traditionally little more than lightly spiced lard), and grain-and-vegetable dishes seasoned with fresh herbs and seasonal fruits.

Our vegan reveillon menu preserves the tastes and traditions of old Quebec with a fraction of the fat, and can be made ahead of time with no last-minute fussing.

The Mushroom-Hazelnut Pate is rich only in taste, not fat, as are crudites (raw vegetables) with Creamy Herb Spread.

Baked beans benefit from two favorite flavorings of La Belle Provence--maple syrup and rum--replacing the heavy meatball ragouts of bygone days. Another French-derived side dish, Chou a la Bourguignonne, or Cabbage in Red Wine, is a timeless treat.

A tender, low-fat crust made with canola oil encases Vegetarian Tourtiere, a meat' pie made with ground seitan and the customary potatoes and herbs. (Tourtiere has become so popular all over Canada that excellent frozen versions are now available year-round in health food stores as far afield as British Columbia.

Even the uniquely French-Canadian Christmas desserts, such as chocolate Buche de Noel, or Yule-Log Cake Roll, and sugar pie, or Tartelettes Au Sucre, are slimmed down, but with no loss in taste bud gratification--truly cause for celebration! The original of this luscious Christmas cake log came from France, but other versions of it appear in many European countries, reflecting the importance of burning the yule log at the winter solstice in ancient times. The power of the yule log, particularly the birch, was said to give strength to the newborn sun at the beginning of a new solar year.

Serve your reveillon feast with Vegan Eggnog.' Other traditional dinner accompaniments can include French baguettes or rolls, whole grain crackers, rye bread and pickled beets and onions. For beverages, offer hot apple cider, wine and, of course, champagne.

Maple-Rum Baked Beans

Omit the rum if you prefer, but it lends a rich flavor. 2 cups dried navy beans 2 Tbs. dark sesame oil (see glossary) 1 small onion, peeled 1 cup pure maple syrup 1/4 cup dark rum 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. dry mustard Soak beans in water to cover 8 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Drain beans, rinse and add to a heavy kettle with 6 cups fresh water. Bring to a boil; lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Drain beans, reserving cooking water.

Place beans in bean pot or ovenproof casserole; mix with sesame oil. Place onion in center of pot. In small bowl, mix maple syrup, rum, salt, dry mustard and 1/2 cup reserved bean liquid. Pour mixture over beans. Add just enough bean liquid to cover beans. Cover pot; bake 2 hours.

Add remaining bean liquid. Stir well; bake until beans are soft and liquid is nearly absorbed, 1 1/2 to 2 hours more. Add water as needed. Uncover casserole during the last 30 minutes of baking. Serve hot. Makes 8 side-dish servings or 6 as a main dish.

Helpful hints: To prepare beans in a slow-cooker, simmer soaked beans in 6 cups water in a saucepan until beans are tender, 40 to 60 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid. Add beans to slow-cooker with 1/2 cup reserved bean cooking liquid, chopped onion and remaining ingredients. Cook on high S to 6 hours, or low 10 to 12 hours.

* Try soaking beans using the quick-soak method. Cover beans with 6 cups water in a heavy pot, bring to a boil, boil gently 2 minutes, turn off heat, cover and let stand 1 hour. Drain proceed with recipe. PER SIDE-DISH SERVING: 328 CAL.; 11G PROT.; 4G FAT; 59G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 538MG SOD.; 6G FIBER. VEGAN

Mushroom-Hazelnut Pate

Serve the pate whole, or slice it and place on lettuce-lined salad plates. Serve with crusty baguettes or French rolls. 4 to 8 large bay leaves 1 large onion, finely minced 6 cloves garlic, minced or crushed 1 lb. fresh mushrooms, cleaned,

trimmed and chopped 3 Tbs. dry sherry 1/3 cup roasted and ground hazelnuts

or filberts 1/3 cup toasted whole grain bread