All-American Vegetarian: A Regional Harvest of Low-Fat Recipes. - book reviews

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1996 by Nava Atlas

CLASSIC AMERICAN COOKERY can be a tough genre to sell to vegetarians; what immediately springs to mind is Pennsylvania Dutch scrapple, New England boiled dinner, Cajun blackened catfish, and from the heartland, great-grandma-style pot pies and roasted turkey dinners. Yes, regional cooking is all that, but it's much more, as Barbara Grunes (the author of 3 6 other cookbooks) and Virginia Van Vynckt (a former food writer for the Chicago Sun-Times) eloquently convey in this exciting, eclectic collection.

They offer a generous sampling of tried-and-true American standards such as hoppin' John (black-eyed peas with rice), scuffled grits, and chili and burritos, all with up-to-date flavor twists. But this "all-American" collection also includes an array of ethnic dishes, from Indian biryani to Swedish pancakes. While the authors obviously intend to pay tribute to our cultural melting pot, these dishes stretch the definition of American cuisine.

But after trying some of the recipes, I decided that my problem with thus book is with its title, not its contents. The recipes are outstanding. Pad Thai, Chicago-Style is a delicious and reliable recipe for this spicy, garlicky noodle dish. With a deep, complex flavor, it tastes remarkably dose to what I've enjoyed in good Thai restaurants. Quesadillas with Tomato-Mango Salsa are beautiful and perfect for a light supper (the authors present them as part of a Southwestern brunch). The Bean Burrito with Tomatillo Sauce is just the sort of simple, hearty food I like for everyday meals; this version is filling but not heavy, and the fresh tomatillo sauce gives it a pleasant tang.

All-American Vegetarian includes many hearty grain-and-bean combinations. Savory Rice and Pigeon Peas, a Puerto Rican standard (presented as a regional favorite among Puerto Rican New Yorkers), is enlivened with annatto seed, mild chilies, green olives and cilantro. I used white rice as the authors instructed, but it would be great with brown rice, too. I mixed regions for this meal by paring it with Broccoli, Raisin and Sunflower Seed Salad from "The Heartland" section. Mild and slightly sweet, it proved to be a refreshing, crunchy contrast.

Despite their traditional roots, the dishes presented here are a respite from the familiar fare found in many vegetarian cookbooks. The authors make good use of Native American ingredients such as fresh corn, black walnuts, quinoa, cranberries, fresh chili peppers and legumes of many varieties (they include a glossary of ingredients). They take chances on converting tofu-phobes by luring diem with barbecued, blackened and spice-crusted treatments. Directions are clear and concise, and most recipes are quick and easy to prepare. There are also more than 200 low-fat recipes, many suitable for vegans. Boxed notes called "Food Facts and Fancies" are scattered throughout, giving readers interesting culinary lore.

I'm sure I'll be using this book regularly, both for classic regional dishes and recipes From the melting pot. All-American Vegetarian is a book to be savored and leisurely explored. It's a unique, culinary cross-country trip. HENRY HOLT AND CO., NEW YORK. ISBN 0-8050-3509-5 HARDCOVER 368 PP., $25.