Industrial strength: these substantial chilis will help warm you up on winter's worst days - vegetarian chili dishes, includes recipes and a glossary - also safety tips for eating hot and spicy chili

Vegetarian Times, Jan, 1996 by Jay Solomon

HAVING ENDURED Many blustery winters in my lifetime, I have become something of a chili epicure. When the snow swirls about, I find happiness in a satisfying bowl of chili. Savory chili nourishes and sates the appetite as it soothes the winter-weary soul.

Chili is as American as apple pie, and just as venerated. The legendary dish was born in the late 19th century when Texans began spicing up their campfire stews with a mixture of assertive seasonings and ground chili peppers. Over the years a "bowl of red" gained a devoted--and often passionate--following across the country; it seems almost everyone has a favorite secret recipe for downhome chili. The revered dish has spawned chili cook-offs, festivals, appreciation societies, and more than a few cookbooks and learned discussions.

The vegetarian chilis simmering in my kitchen are distant cousins from yesterday's meat-laden, sloppy Joe look-alikes. These meatless chili dishes are chunky, highly seasoned, healthful and above all, full of variety. Meatless chili dishes include hearty winter squash, corn, eggplant, beets, a bounty of beans and grains, and a plethora of exuberant spices and herbs.

While it's one thing to leave out the meat, other ingredients must be left in for it to be a bowl of red. An authentic chili must be seasoned with chili powder. Chili powder, depending on the brand, includes varying proportions of ground red peppers, cumin, paprika, oregano and garlic powder. You can mix your own spice blend, but it is probably easier to find a good-quality chili powder and complement it with the addition of herbs, cumin, cayenne or other spices to suit your taste.

When purchasing a commercial brand of chili powder, read the label carefully. The first ingredient listed should be ground peppers. Avoid any chili powders listing salt as one of the first ingredients or that include sugar as an additive. The chili powder should also have a strong, earthy, musky scent and a dark, burnt-red hue.

While chili powder and a repertoire of spices gives chili a distinctive character, tomatoes endow chili with body and soul. Although early chili con came (chili with meat) recipes do not call for tomatoes, as far as I am concerned, a chili without tomatoes is a stew, not a chili. My recipes car for tomatoes in a variety of guises--crushed, paste, stewed, fresh and often in combination with each other.

In addition to an assortment of vegetables, stables and a tomato base, today's meatless chilipot includes beans of every shape, size and color. Beans contribute substance, texture and valuable protein, fiber and nutrients to the chili cauldron, as wee as something to sink your teeth into. Some of the recipes car for dried beans that need to be soaked and cooked, but most rely on the convenience of canned beans. If you are using beans you have prepared yourself, about 1 1/2 cups of cooked beans is the equivalent of a 15-ounce can.

Garnishing a bowl of chili has also taken a healthy turn. I've replaced the traditional dollop of high-fat sour cream with chopped scallions, red onions, low-fat yogurt or shredded low-fat cheese. Of course, hearth-style bread such as crusty French, Italian, dark bread and cornbread are always welcome at the table. In addition, true chili aficionados like to serve a bottle of hot pepper sauce with chili, and leave the salt and pepper in the cupboard.

The following recipes are high in spirit and adventure, and low in fat and cholesterol. Good chili is easy to make and sure to satisfy; if you can make a good soup, you can make a great bowl of chili.

Southwestern Corn-and-White Bean Chili

This festive Southwestern-inspired chili is redolent with cumin, cilantro and herbs.

1 Tbs. canola oil 1 large yellow onion, diced 1 yellow or red bell pepper, seeded

and diced 1 medium zucchini, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels 15-oz. can white kidney (cannellini)

beans, or navy beans, drained 15-oz. can stewed tomatoes 15-oz. can crushed tomatoes 2 Tbs. dried parsley 2 tsp. dried oregano 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. chili powder 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper 2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

Heat oil in large saucepan. Add onion, bell pepper, zucchini and garlic. Cook over medium heat until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in corn, beans, stewed and crushed tomatoes, and dried seasonings; bring to simmer. Cook uncovered ever low heat, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.

Remove chili from heat; stir in cilantro. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Serve with a sprinkle of shredded low-fat Monterey Jack cheese and flour tortillas if desired. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 197 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 3G FAT; 39G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 891 MG SOD.; 8G FIBER. VEGAN

15 Bean-and-Winter Squash Chili

This stick-to-your ribs chili explodes the myth that vegetarian food leaves one feeling hungry.

1 cup 15-bean mixture, soaked

overnight and drained (see note) 7 cups water 1 Tbs. canola oil 1 large red onion, diced 1 large green or red bell pepper,