Chicago's Soul Vegetarian - restaurant specializing in African American cuisine - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, March, 1996 by Karen Cope Straus

WHEN WAS THE FIRST TIME you heard the expression soul food? Back in the '60s sometime? The term is of rather recent vintage, having first appeared in print in 1964, according to The Dictionary of American Food and Drink (Hearst Books, 1994). Author John Mariani says the term refers to the spirit among African-Americans that their culture, heritage and cooking gives them an essential "soulfulness" that helps define the African-American experience.

But if you ask Brother Tsadakeeyah Ben Israel, head chef of Chicago's Soul Vegetarian restaurant, the food he prepares has its roots in the earliest scriptures, all the way back to the book of Genesis.

Ben Israel, a member of the African Hebrew Israelite Community of Jerusalem, says that what is called Eden in the Old Testament was actually in Africa. Israelites lived in Eden and were vegetarian in accordance with Scripture, he says. "Our forefathers' original diet was vegetarian, and since then we have come to believe that a vegetarian diet coincides with the highest form of spirituality."

But after the Romans took control of Jerusalem in about 70 A.D., the Israelites dispersed throughout the world. Today, the African Hebrew Israelite Community is headquartered in Israel and numbers about 2,000 members worldwide. The community operates vegan restaurants in Tel Aviv, Washington, D.C., Atlanta and Chicago, serving its "Divine Diet" of fruits, nuts and vegetables. Ben Israel currency is scouting a second Chicago location.

Although Soul Vegetarian's food philosophy is based on Scripture, the heart of the restaurant's menu is definitely Southern. The dinner special is likely to be a platter overflowing with down-South specialties such as Macaroni and 'Cheese,' Carrot Supreme Salad, Cornbread and Down-Home Greens. The protein on the plate usually is a wheat gluten meat analog such as Down-South Barbecue Twists with Barbecue Sauce. Dessert might be a slice of Banana 'Cream' Pie.

But African influences are seen as well, both on the menu and in the decor. Guests can order Groundnut Soup (peanuts are known as groundnuts in Africa), Watchi (Ghanaian Black-Eyed Peas and Rice) and Northeast African Millet Patties. Orders are brought to the table by men and women wearing traditional African tunics, sashes and leggings. The women often wear matching head cloths wound into a turban, and the men skullcaps. Tables in the dining room are covered with a colorful yellow and red kinte cloth print, and a boutique adjoining the restaurant sells African clothing, jewelry and artifacts such as ethnic masks.

On the day Vegetarian Times visited the restaurant, Israel and his bride, Sister Beedkeyah Baht Israel, wore matching Mali mud-cloth outfits. Members of the community, Israel says, wear only natural fibers such as cotton, silk and linen. Fringes and cords at the bottom four corners of the community members' tunics remind wearers to keep the commandments of God. The style of dress, adds Ben Israel, is also a symbol of following God's laws.

Here is a sampling of divine soul food that is truly food for the soul.

Groundnut Soup

1 1/2 cups natural-style smooth peanut butter 8 cups water 6-oz. can tomato paste 4 cups shredded green cabbage 3 medium zucchini, chopped 2 cups sliced mushrooms 4 cups sliced okra 2 cups shredded red cabbage 1 cup corn kernels 2 medium onions, chopped 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 small eggplant, cubed 1/2 cup tamari (see glossary) 1 tsp. salt (optional)

IN A LARGE SOUP POT, mix peanut butter with about 2 cups water to form a smooth, somewhat loose paste. (Add water in small increments and stir between additions,to avoid lumps.) Cook peanut butter mixture over low heat until oil separates slightly from peanut butter. Add more water to the mixture if peanut butter sticks; do not burn mixture.

Add remaining water, whisking to incorporate. Add tomato paste, stirring to incorporate; simmer 10 minutes. Add vegetables and simmer until tender, about 3 0 minutes. Add tamari and salt if desired. Makes 10 servings. PER SERVING 304 CAL.; 16G PROT.; 15G FAT; 32G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 917MG SOD.; 11G FIBER. VEGAN

Cornbread

The only leavening agent in this dense, moist cornbread is clabbered soymilk.

1 stick margarine 1/3 cup canola oil (see glossary) 4 cups yellow cornmeal 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 cup wheat germ 1/2 tsp. salt 1 cup honey 1/2 cup warm water 1 cup clabbered soymilk (see note)

PREHEAT OVEN to 425 degrees. Melt margarine and oil together in bowl. Mix cornmeal, flour, wheat germ and salt in a bowl; add honey and oil mixture. Add water and clabbered soymilk; mix well. Pour into a lightly oiled pan. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 15 servings.

NOTE: To clabber soymilk, stir in 1/2tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice per 1 cup of soymilk. PER SERVING 320CAL.; 5G PROT.; 11G FAT; 51G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 113MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)

Carrot Supreme Salad

Try this salad as a sandwich filling, on toast or crackers or with celery and carrot sticks.

4 cups carrot pulp (from 2 lbs. carrots juiced in electric juicer) or grated carrot 1/4 cup minced onion 1/4 cup minced celery 1/4 cup nutritional yeast 1/2 cup bottled pickle relish 2 Tbs. honey or brown sugar (optional) 1/2 cup Soy Butter (see recipe on p. 65) or vegan mayonnaise 1/2 cup carrot juice 1/2 tsp. salt or veggie seasoning salt