Vegetarian Times: Chicago's Soul Vegetarian - restaurant specializing in African American cuisine

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Chicago's Soul Vegetarian - restaurant specializing in African American cuisine - includes recipes

Karen Cope Straus

WHEN WAS THE FIRST TIME you heard the expression soul food? Back in the '60s sometime? The term is of rather recent vintage, having first appeared in print in 1964, according to The Dictionary of American Food and Drink (Hearst Books, 1994). Author John Mariani says the term refers to the spirit among African-Americans that their culture, heritage and cooking gives them an essential "soulfulness" that helps define the African-American experience.

But if you ask Brother Tsadakeeyah Ben Israel, head chef of Chicago's Soul Vegetarian restaurant, the food he prepares has its roots in the earliest scriptures, all the way back to the book of Genesis.

Ben Israel, a member of the African Hebrew Israelite Community of Jerusalem, says that what is called Eden in the Old Testament was actually in Africa. Israelites lived in Eden and were vegetarian in accordance with Scripture, he says. "Our forefathers' original diet was vegetarian, and since then we have come to believe that a vegetarian diet coincides with the highest form of spirituality."

But after the Romans took control of Jerusalem in about 70 A.D., the Israelites dispersed throughout the world. Today, the African Hebrew Israelite Community is headquartered in Israel and numbers about 2,000 members worldwide. The community operates vegan restaurants in Tel Aviv, Washington, D.C., Atlanta and Chicago, serving its "Divine Diet" of fruits, nuts and vegetables. Ben Israel currency is scouting a second Chicago location.

Although Soul Vegetarian's food philosophy is based on Scripture, the heart of the restaurant's menu is definitely Southern. The dinner special is likely to be a platter overflowing with down-South specialties such as Macaroni and 'Cheese,' Carrot Supreme Salad, Cornbread and Down-Home Greens. The protein on the plate usually is a wheat gluten meat analog such as Down-South Barbecue Twists with Barbecue Sauce. Dessert might be a slice of Banana 'Cream' Pie.

But African influences are seen as well, both on the menu and in the decor. Guests can order Groundnut Soup (peanuts are known as groundnuts in Africa), Watchi (Ghanaian Black-Eyed Peas and Rice) and Northeast African Millet Patties. Orders are brought to the table by men and women wearing traditional African tunics, sashes and leggings. The women often wear matching head cloths wound into a turban, and the men skullcaps. Tables in the dining room are covered with a colorful yellow and red kinte cloth print, and a boutique adjoining the restaurant sells African clothing, jewelry and artifacts such as ethnic masks.

On the day Vegetarian Times visited the restaurant, Israel and his bride, Sister Beedkeyah Baht Israel, wore matching Mali mud-cloth outfits. Members of the community, Israel says, wear only natural fibers such as cotton, silk and linen. Fringes and cords at the bottom four corners of the community members' tunics remind wearers to keep the commandments of God. The style of dress, adds Ben Israel, is also a symbol of following God's laws.

Here is a sampling of divine soul food that is truly food for the soul.

Groundnut Soup

1 1/2 cups natural-style smooth peanut butter 8 cups water 6-oz. can tomato paste 4 cups shredded green cabbage 3 medium zucchini, chopped 2 cups sliced mushrooms 4 cups sliced okra 2 cups shredded red cabbage 1 cup corn kernels 2 medium onions, chopped 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 small eggplant, cubed 1/2 cup tamari (see glossary) 1 tsp. salt (optional)

IN A LARGE SOUP POT, mix peanut butter with about 2 cups water to form a smooth, somewhat loose paste. (Add water in small increments and stir between additions,to avoid lumps.) Cook peanut butter mixture over low heat until oil separates slightly from peanut butter. Add more water to the mixture if peanut butter sticks; do not burn mixture.

Add remaining water, whisking to incorporate. Add tomato paste, stirring to incorporate; simmer 10 minutes. Add vegetables and simmer until tender, about 3 0 minutes. Add tamari and salt if desired. Makes 10 servings. PER SERVING 304 CAL.; 16G PROT.; 15G FAT; 32G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 917MG SOD.; 11G FIBER. VEGAN

Cornbread

The only leavening agent in this dense, moist cornbread is clabbered soymilk.

1 stick margarine 1/3 cup canola oil (see glossary) 4 cups yellow cornmeal 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 cup wheat germ 1/2 tsp. salt 1 cup honey 1/2 cup warm water 1 cup clabbered soymilk (see note)

PREHEAT OVEN to 425 degrees. Melt margarine and oil together in bowl. Mix cornmeal, flour, wheat germ and salt in a bowl; add honey and oil mixture. Add water and clabbered soymilk; mix well. Pour into a lightly oiled pan. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 15 servings.

NOTE: To clabber soymilk, stir in 1/2tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice per 1 cup of soymilk. PER SERVING 320CAL.; 5G PROT.; 11G FAT; 51G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 113MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)

Carrot Supreme Salad

Try this salad as a sandwich filling, on toast or crackers or with celery and carrot sticks.

4 cups carrot pulp (from 2 lbs. carrots juiced in electric juicer) or grated carrot 1/4 cup minced onion 1/4 cup minced celery 1/4 cup nutritional yeast 1/2 cup bottled pickle relish 2 Tbs. honey or brown sugar (optional) 1/2 cup Soy Butter (see recipe on p. 65) or vegan mayonnaise 1/2 cup carrot juice 1/2 tsp. salt or veggie seasoning salt

MIX ALL INGREDIENTS well. Serve on a bed of lettuce or sprouts. Makes 6 servings. PER SERVING 161 CAL 4G PROT. 10G FAT 16G CARB.: 0 CHOL.; 335MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Northeast African Millet Patties

3 cups cooked millet (see note: see glossary) 1/2 cup nut butter such as cashew, almond, peanut or tahini 1 Tbs. onion powder 1 Tbs. tamari (see glossary) 1 tsp. celery seed 1 Tbs. canola oil (see glossary)

MIX ALL INGREDIENTS together. Form into patties; brown on both sides in lightly oiled skillet. Makes 6 patties.

NOTE: To cook millet, bring 2 1/2 cups water to a boil. Add 1 cup millet, cover and simmer over medium heat 15 minutes. Remove from heat; let sit uncovered 20 minutes. Makes about 3 cups. PER SERVING 296 CAL.; 10G PROT.; 14G FAT; 34G CARB.; 0 CHOL.;176MG SOD.; 3G FIBER VEGAN

Macaroni and 'Cheese'

14 oz. uncooked elbow macaroni 4 cups water 10 1/2-oz. package soft silken tofu, drained (see glossary) 1 cup soymilk 1/2 cup tahini (see glossary) 3 Tbs. nutritional yeast (see glossary) 1 tsp. turmeric (see glossary) Salt to taste 2 Tbs. margarine

PREHEAT OVEN to 350 degrees. Boil macaroni in water until just underdone; drain in colander. Run cold water over macaroni to stop cooking.

Blend tofu and soymilk in blender or food processor until smooth Add tahini, nutritional yeast, turmeric and salt; mix until smooth In large bowl, stir together macaroni and 'cheese' sauce. Place mixture in lightly oiled ovenproof casserole; top with pats of margarine. Bake until golden and bubbly, about 20 minutes. Makes 10 servings. PER SERVING 277 CAL.; 11G PROT.; 10G FAT; 36G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 363MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Down-Home Greens

2 bunches collard greens, washed 1 cup water 1 medium eggplant, chopped 1 Tbs. canola oil (see glossary) 2 Tbs. minced garlic 2 medium onions, cut into rings 2 medium tomatoes, cut into chunks Salt to taste

ROLL GREENS IN TIGHT, cigar-shaped bundles. Slice bundles crosswise every 1/2inch to shred greens. Heat water in large, deep skillet or soup pot. Add greens and eggplant; simmer, covered, until greens are wilted and eggplant is tender, about 15 minutes. Pan liquid ("pot liquor") should be nearly evaporated.

Meanwhile, heat oil in saute pan over medium heat; cook garlic, onions and tomatoes until aromatic and tender, about 5 minutes. Stir tomato mixture into greens just before serving. Makes I 0 servings. PER SERVING 44 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 2G FAT.; 7G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 114MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN

Watchi (Ghanaian Black-Eyed Peas and Rice)

1 cup dried black-eyed peas, sorted, rinsed and soaked overnight (see note) 1 bay leaf 1 4 to 5-inch piece kombu (optional; see glossary) 3 cups cooked brown rice Salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Sauce: 1 Tbs. canola oil (see glossary) 1 heaping Tbs. whole wheat flour 1 large onion, sliced 1 cup tomato paste 1/2tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

DISCARD PEA soaking water; rinse peas. Refill pot with fresh, cold water (cover peas to a depth of 2 to 3 inches). Add bay leaf and kombu if desired; bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer peas gently with pot cover ajar until tender, about I hour. Add more water if necessary. Water should be nearly evaporated at end of cooking time. Discard bay leaf and kombu. Add cooked rice, salt and pepper to taste at end of cooking time.

SAUCE: Heat oil in skillet. Add flour and mix to make roux. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until roux browns slightly, about 2 minutes. Add onion; cook until browned. Add tomato paste and nutmeg; stir until well-mixed. Add water to desired consistency (sauce should be thick and not too soupy). Serve over Watchi. Makes about 2 cups.

NOTE: To quick soak dried beans, cover to a depth of 2 inches with fresh, cold water in a large pot. Bring to a boil; cook 2 to 3 minutes. Turn heat off; let beans soak I hour. Pour off soaking water and proceed with recipe. PER SERVING 150 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 2G FAT; 29G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 280MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. VEGAN

Down-South Barbecue Twists

2 lbs. seitan dough from packaged seitan mix or Homemade Seitan (see recipe on p. 64; see glossary) 1/4 cup nutritional yeast (see glossary) 1/3 cup natural-style smooth peanut butter or tahini 1 Tbs. paprika 1 Tbs. garlic powder 1 onion, minced 1/4 cup warmed canola oil (see glossary) 1/2 cup Barbecue Sauce (see recipe on p. 64)

IN LARGE BOWL, pull and stretch seitan dough; mix in nutritional yeast, peanut butter, paprika and garlic powder. When ingredients are incorporated and dough is elastic and smooth, let rest a few minutes.

Meanwhile, saute onion over medium heat in oil until transparent, about 5 minutes. While onion-oil mixture is still warm, mix with seitan dough by pulling and stretching. Pull and stretch until texture is stringy but dough doesn't tear, about 5 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut gluten into 12 pieces. Stretch and twist pieces around 12 bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water. Place twists on lightly oiled baking sheet. Bake 30 minutes; brush twists with Barbecue Sauce and bake 10 minutes longer. Makes 12 twists. PER SERVING 356 CAL.; 43G PROT.; 6G FAT; 34G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; I 52MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)

Barbecue Sauce

2 Tbs. margarine or canola oil 3 Tbs. molasses 1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar 1 cup water 1 bay leaf 1 2-oz. can tomato paste 4 Tbs. honey or brown sugar 2 Tbs. garlic powder 1/8 cup tamari (see glossary) Salt to taste

PLACE ALL INGREDIENTS in medium saucepan. Simmer over low heat 20 minutes. Makes 2 cups. PER TABLESPOON: 33 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 1G FAT; 7G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 103MG SOD.; 1G FIBER.VEGAN(HONEY)

Homemade Seitan

2 lbs. whole wheat flour 1 quart water

IN LARGE BOWL, mix flour and water thoroughly (consistency should be medium to firm). Let dough rest at least 45 minutes.

Put dough in colander. While running cold water, continually squeeze dough to wash out starch from mixture. Dough should remain intact in one piece during squeezing. Keep rinsing and squeezing until all graininess is gone and water runs clear, 10 to 15 minutes. Cover seitan with water until ready to use. Makes 1 2 servings. PER SERVING 284 CAL.; 40G PROT.; 2G FAT; 26G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 38MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN

Banana 'Cream' Pie

10 1/2-oz. package firm silken tofu (see glossary) 1/2 cup soymilk 1 1/2 cups Soy Butter (recipe follows) 3 ripe bananas 1 Tbs. vanilla extract 1/2 cup honey or 3/4 cup brown sugar 1 prepared 9-inch crumb or baked pastry pie crust (see note)

IN FOOD PROCESSOR, blend tofu with soymilk. Add Soy Butter, bananas, vanilla and honey; process until smooth and creamy (if mixture is too thick, add more soymilk). Pour mixture into pie crust and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours. If desired, garnish with Mock Whipped Cream and banana slices. Makes 8 servings.

NOTE: For an excellent pastry pie crust made without sugar or shortening, see our February 1996 issue, p. 26. PER SERVING: 372 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 28G FAT; 30G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 94MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)

Soy Butter

1/2 cup soymilk 2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 cup canola oil

PLACE SOYMILK into food processor. With motor running, pour oil into soymilk. When mixture starts to stiffen, add lemon, juice. Makes about 1 1/2 cups. PER TABLESPOON: 84 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 9G FAT; 1G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1MG SOD.; 0.1G FIBER.VEGAN

Mock Whipped Cream

This recipe, adapted from the VEGETARIAN TIMES COMPLETE COOKBOOK (Macmillan, 1995), makes an excellent topper for a number of desserts, including the Banana 'Cream' Pie on p. 64.

10 1/2-oz. package firm silken tofu, drained (see glossary) 2 Tbs. maple syrup 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. grated orange rind Dash ground nutmeg

PUREE ALL INGREDIENTS in blender or food processor until smooth smooth and creamy.

Cover; refrigerate 20 minutes before serving. Makes I cup. PER TABLESPOON: 37 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 1G FAT; 5G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 13MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN

G L O S S A R Y

Canola oil: The market name for rapeseed oil. Mild flavored and lower in saturated fat than any other oil.

Kombu: A wide, thick, dark green sea vegetable. Used in making soups and for cooking with beans to replace trace elements poured out with the soaking water.

Millet: A tiny, round golden grain that becomes light and fluffy when cooked. Popular in India and China.

Nutritional yeast: A dietary supplement and condiment that has a distinct but pleasant aroma. Its taste varies from nutty to cheesy. It can be added to soups and casseroles or sprinkled on toast, popcorn or spaghetti.

Seitan: A chewy, meat-like, high-protein food made made from boiled or baked wheat gluten. Available in dry mixes, prepared chilled in the deli section and prepared frozen.

Silken tofu: White, easily digestible curd made from cooked soybeans. Silken tofu is Japanese-style and milder in flavor and higher in protein than regular, Chinese-style tofu. Available firm or soft in 10 1/2-oz. aseptic packages.

Tahini: A,thick, smooth paste made of ground sesame seeds popular in Middle Eastern cuisine.

Tamari: A naturally brewed soy sauce that contains no sugar. Available wheat-free.

Turmeric: The ground root of a plant related to ginger. It has a bitter, pungent flavor and an intense yellow orange color. It is used in curries and is what gives American mustard its bright yellow color.