Perfectly Provencal: vegetarian dishes from the south of France go light without losing any of their delicious character - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, April, 1996 by Karen A. Levin

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PROVENCE HAS BEEN CALLED the market garden of France, and no wonder. In every small town the abundance of seasonal fresh produce at the local outdoor market is breathtaking. Shiny aubergines (eggplants), colorful peppers, a variety of squash and beans, and, in summer, vine-ripened tomatoes, paint a picture nearly as inspiring as a Monet painting.

The French take their food very seriously. The day for many begins at 7 a.m. with shopping for the mid-day meal, the most important meal which is consumed between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. A visit to the local market for produce, herbs and flowers is usually followed by a stop at the local patisserie for the freshest of pastries and sweets. Then, it is off to the boulangerie for the perfect bread to accompany the meal. Finally there is the trip to the wine shop for the local Provencal table wine. This daily ritual is enjoyed almost as much as the good food and conversation that come with it.

The care in choosing ingredients is enhanced by a love of cooking characteristic of Provencal people. The freshest ingredients always produce the best-tasting dishes. The herbs of Provence--namely thyme, basil, rosemary and marjoram--give the dishes a delicious perfume. The two seemingly mandatory ingredients, garlic and olive oil, marry to create a robust, hearty flavor borrowed from the neighboring Mediterranean culture.

Although most Americans lack the luxury of year-round farmers' markets, our grocery stores and supermarkets are awakening to the demand for fresh ingredients. Increasingly, specialty and gourmet markets carry a wide array of French mustards, cheeses and wines. Although we have yet to adopt the leisurely mid-day meal, there is a trend toward more home-cooked evening meals and more time spent in the kitchen on weekends.

Traditional Provencal dishes are rich with cream, butter and olive oil, but the following recipes have been lightened to reduce the fat while maintaining their delicious character. Try the following menu suggestions for a Provencal meal and make sure you include a good red wine to accompany it.

Poached Vegetables with Garlic Aioli

To speed up preparation time, use packages of prewashed broccoli and cauliflower florets. The aioli may be prepared up to 8 hours before serving, then kept covered and chilled. Serve the aioli slightly chilled or at room temperature in lettuce cups surrounded by the vegetables.

2 cups vegetable broth

1 lb. very small red potatoes, scrubbed (1 1/2 inches in diameter)

8-oz. package baby carrots

8-oz. green beans or wax beans, tough stems trimmed

2 cups 1-inch broccoli florets

2 cups 1-inch cauliflower florets

1/3 cup fat-reduced mayonnaise

1 large clove garlic, minced

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

BRING BROTH to a boil in a Dutch oven or large deep saucepan. Add potatoes; cover and simmer 8 minutes. Add carrots and green beans, cover and simmer 5 minutes. Add broccoli and cauliflower florets; cover and simmer 3 to 4 minutes, or until vegetables are crisp-tender.

Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, garlic and lemon juice; set aside. Transfer vegetables with a slotted spoon to warm dinner plates or shallow bowls. Gently boil broth in Dutch oven over high heat until reduced to 1/2 cup. Drizzle broth over vegetables. Serve vegetables with garlic aioli for dipping. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 170 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 5G FAT; 30G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 164MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

Caramelized Onion Tart

This delicious tart is sold by the slice across France, but particularly in the south. I use rich, nutty mild-flavored Swiss cheeses to top the tart--either Gruyere or Ementhaler.

Dough:

1/2 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

1/2 packet quick-rising yeast (1 tsp.)

1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour or half unbleached-half whole wheat or whole wheat pastry flour, divided

1 tsp. olive oil

1/4 tsp. salt

Topping:

1 tsp. olive oil

1 lb. (about 3 medium) sweet or yellow onions, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp. sugar

1/4 tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup (2 oz.) shredded Gruyere or Ementhaler cheese

1/4 cup (1 oz.) grated Parmesan cheese

DOUGH: Combine warm water and yeast in a large bowl; let stand 5 minutes, or until bubbly. Add 1 1/4 cups flour, oil and salt to form soft dough. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes (add flour 1 tablespoon at a time to prevent dough from sticking to hands). Place dough in lightly oiled bowl, turning dough to coat top. Cover loosely with wax paper or plastic wrap; let stand 30 minutes in a warm place free from drafts.

TOPPING: Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; cover and cook 5 minutes or until wilted. Stir well; reduce heat to medium. Cover and continue to cook 10 minutes, stirring once. Sprinkle onions with sugar; increase heat to medium-high. Saute 2 minutes, uncovered, or until onions are golden brown and tender. Stir in salt and pepper.

ASSEMBLY: Punch down dough; transfer to lightly floured surface. Roll out dough to an 8- by 12-inch rectangle. Transfer dough to nonstick 15- by 10-inch jelly roll pan or cookie sheet (reshape rectangle if necessary). Pinch up outside edges of dough on all sides forming a 1/4-inch border. Arrange onions over dough; sprinkle with Gruyere or Ementhaler, then Parmesan.