Perfectly Provencal: vegetarian dishes from the south of France go light without losing any of their delicious character - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, April, 1996 by Karen A. Levin

Chopped fresh thyme leaves (optional)

COMBINE PORCINI MUSHROOMS and boiling water; let stand until mushrooms are tender, about 25 minutes. Strain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Coarsely chop mushrooms; set aside.

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat; saute onion and garlic 10 minutes. If using shiitake mushrooms, discard stems and cut caps in half if large. Halve any large oyster mushrooms. Thinly slice chanterelle mushrooms if they are large or very firm. Leave morels whole. Add fresh mushrooms to onion mixture in skillet; saute 5 minutes. Pour reserved mushroom liquid into skillet, leaving any sediment in bottom of bowl. Add reserved chopped mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes, or until mushrooms are tender. Add cream if desired; heat through. Serve over toast; sprinkle with fresh thyme if desired. Makes 4 servings.

VARIATION: For Mixed Mushroom Ramekins, transfer mushroom mixture to 4 ovenproof small ramekins or custard cups. Sprinkle each with 2 tablespoons shredded Gruyere cheese. Bake at 400 degrees until bubbly, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve with crusty French bread.

PER SERVING: 154 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 5G FAT; 24G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 460MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN/LACTO

Warm Potato Salad on Bitter Greens

This delicious salad is often served in cafes in the south of France. To turn it into a main-dish salad, place a generous slice of herbed goat cheese on top of the lettuce before spooning over it the warm potato mixture.

1 lb. red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/3-inch slices

1 cup vegetable broth

1 1/2 Tbs. olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

1/2 to 1 Tbs. chopped fresh dill or 1 tsp. dried dill weed

1/4 tsp. salt 10 oz. mixed bitter salad greens or 8 cups packed torn assorted salad greens

Freshly ground black pepper

COMBINE POTATOES and broth in a large deep skillet. Cover; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat; simmer 10 minutes, or until potatoes are barely tender. Add oil and garlic; simmer uncovered over medium heat until potatoes are tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Stir in lemon juice, dill and salt; heat through.

Arrange greens on 4 serving plates. Spoon potato mixture over greens; sprinkle generously with pepper. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: 170 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 5G FAT; 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 168MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN

Le Club du Sandwich Fromage

Sandwiches abound in the south of France. They are sold in neighborhood bars, in PATISSERIES and at concession stands at the beach. Look for wheels of Camembert or wedges of Brie cheese in the imported section of supermarkets or visit a gourmet food shop. These soft, ripened cheeses have the best flavor when at room temperature. Fresh bread for this sandwich is a must, but the shape is up to you. The French bake long thin baguettes and round soft loaves which they call PAN BAGNAT. You can use one long 12-ounce loaf of French bread, cut into 4 pieces.

1 Tbs. tarragon or country-style Dijon mustard (see glossary)

4 3-oz. round soft French bread loaves, split in half