Stalking the cultivated asparagus - includes recipes - Cover Story

Vegetarian Times, May, 1996 by Kitty Morse

When we lived in Wisconsin, my husband and I would often set off on a springtime hunt for wild asparagus. Sitting inside the car with windows open, we would comb country roads for the timid shoots poking their characteristic green tips from the oil. And though these excursions came to an end when we moved to southern California, I soon discovered that cultivated varieties of asparagus thrive in warmer climes, and are a prized offering at local farmers' markets.

Asparagus has been cultivated for at least 2,500 years; the ancient and the Romans enjoyed asparagus not only as a gourmet delicacy, but also believed in the vegetable's medicinal and aphrodisiacal properties. France's Louis XIV had a particular fondness for asparagus, rewarded his gardener with a tide for inventing a process by the Sun, King could savor fresh asparagus year-round.

Growing asparagus in heated beds inside "stove houses" was later by the Germans, who eventually became pioneers in the cultivation of white asparagus. Today, asparagus is grown in a number of countries, and is available year-round, fresh, canned or frozen in a wide range of sizes, from colossal to pencil-slim.

Although asparagus was known to a select few Americans in California's Sacramento Delta region as early as 1852, it wasn't until the 1870s that it was first cultivated for commercial purposes in New England. Today's leading producers of asparagus include Michigan, Washington, Illinois and New Jersey.

In California, where 100 percent of asparagus production is bound for produce markets, growing grounds range from the rich, chocolate-colored soil of the Sacramento Delta to vast expanses of irrigated land in the California desert near the Arizona border. Since no mechanical harvester has yet been developed, each spear is hand-cut two inches below the top soil by specially trained pickers.

Asparagus is a genus of the lily family, which also includes onion, garlic, gladiolus and tulips. Among the 150 species known, only one, Asparagus officianalis, evolved into the upright asparagus that is cultivated commercially. Americans favor green asparagus, which is less fibrous and more strongly-flavored than the white variety.

White asparagus, obtained by covering the beds with mulch to prevent contact with light, is more highly prized in Europe. An unusual purple-tipped asparagus called viola, developed in italy, is making a timid appearance in some American specialty markets. (A word to those taken with the novelty of color: The purple tips turn green after they are cooked. In Europe, fat stalks of white asparagus are preferably steamed whole, and served with a light dressing. Green asparagus lends itself better to a variety of preparations from steaming to stir-frying.

In addition to its delicate flavor, the vegetable is high in fiber, vitamins A, [B.sub.1], [B.sub.2], C and potassium. It is low in fat and sugar, with only 3 5 calories per cup. When buying asparagus, look for tips that are smooth and closed, as an indication of young spears. To store them, wrap the ends in wet paper towels, and then enclose them in a plastic bag. They will keep for three to four days in the refrigerator.

To prepare asparagus, rinse the spears under running water to remove the grit. Cut off the tough ends (some people prefer to snap off the ends and discard the lower portion). Or, with a vegetable peeler, peel the tough, pale-colored ends. If you don't own an asparagus steamer, bring a large pot of water to a boil, and cook the spears 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon the crispness desired. Carefully remove the asparagus from the pot with a slotted spoon or with tongs so as not to break off the tips. Place them in a shallow serving dish, and top with your favorite herb-scented vinaigrette or a touch of lemon butter. If you're in the mood for something more exotic, you'll enjoy the versatility of d% delicate vegetable as demonstrated in the following recipes.

Asparagus Stir-Fry with Black Bean Sauce

2 Tbs. mirin (see glossary) or dry white wine 1 Tbs. cornstarch 1/4 cup Chinese black bean sauce (see glossary) 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 slices fresh ginger, minced 1 Tbs. canola oil 1 cup vegetable broth 2 Tbs. light soy sauce (see glossary) 1 1/2 lbs. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces 3 scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces (green and white parts) 1 Tbs. slivered almonds or chopped cashews Red pepper flakes to taste

In a small bowl, mix mirin or wine with cornstarch until smooth; set aside. In another small bowl, mix black bean sauce with garlic and ginger; set aside.

Heat oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add black bean mixture; cook, stirring constantly until well blended, about 1 minute. Add broth and soy sauce; cook, stirring, about 1 minute.

Increase heat to medium-high. Add asparagus and scallions; cook, stirring, until vegetables are crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add additional broth or water if necessary to prevent sticking.

With slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to serving platter. Reduce heat to medium. Add cornstarch mixture to pan; stir until sauce thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour sauce over asparagus and sprinkle with almonds or cashews. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and serve over cooked rice if desired. Makes 4 servings. PER SERVING: 132 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 5G FAT; 16G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 826MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN