The best of restaurant dining: great recipes from a few of a our favorite vegetarian restaurants around the country - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, June, 1996 by Karen Cope Straus

THIS WAS A FUN STORY to write, mainly because it's completely unscientific. No surveys, no studies, no focus groups. All I did was pick vegetarian restaurants where I had recently enjoyed a great meal. I also asked friends and co-workers about their favorite dining-out experiences. I then called the restaurants and asked for one of their most popular recipes.

In the October issue of Vegetarian Times, you will have a chance to tell us about your own favorite dining experience, if you participate in our Restaurant Olympics. All you have to do is nominate your favorite vegetarian restaurant, and tell us in 50 words or less why you think it's worthy of a gold medal.

Send your name, address, entry form and a menu (if possible) to Restaurant Olympics, Vegetarian Times, 1140 Lake St., Suite 500, Oak Park, IL 60301. Entry forms appeared in the April and May issues of Vegetarian Times. (If you do not have an entry form, you can request one from the aforementioned address.)

Here are a few offerings from great vegetarian restaurants to get you in the Olympic spirit. Let the games begin!

ANGELICA KITCHEN 300 E. 12th St., New York, NY 10003 (212) 228-2909 East Village locals flock to Angelica for inventive, locally grown vegan victuals that are something between home cooking and gourmet masterpieces. For those not vegan literate, the menu offers a glossary page where even the most uncommon ingredients are explained in the simplest terms. Chef Peter Berley's Sea Caesar Salad draws raves for its creamy, eggless dressing. And as a vegetarian who gave up seafood last, I enjoy the `fishy' flavor that sea vegetables provide in the salad.

Sea Caesar Salad

Croutons:

2 cups cubed sourdough bread

(2-inch cubes) 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbs. minced fresh thyme leaves

(1 tsp. dried) Pinch freshly ground black pepper

Dressing:

1 Tbs. minced garlic 2 tsp. Dijon mustard (see glossary, p. 118) 2 tsp. umeboshi plum paste see

glossary, p. 118) 3 Tbs. balsamic vinegar (see

glossary, p.1 18) 3 Tbs. lemon juice 1 Tbs. light miso see glossary, p.1 18) 1/2 1 01/2-oz. package soft silken tofu

(see glossary, p. 1 1 8) 1/2 cup canola oil

cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad:

1 head Romaine lettuce (about 8

cups), washed, dried and

chilled 1/2 cup dressing 2 cups croutons Dulse powder to taste (see

glossary, p. 1 18) Nori strips to taste (see glossary, p. 118)

PREHEAT oven to 375 degrees. Toss all crouton ingredients together; spread on baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes; cool.

DRESSING: While croutons bake, combine all dressing ingredients except oils in bowl, blender or food processor; whisk or blend until creamy. In thin stream, add oils; blend until fully incorporated.

To SERVE: Tear lettuce into bite-sized pieces; toss with dressing. Top with croutons, dulse powder and nori strips. Makes about 2 cups dressing and 8 side-dish servings of salad.

HELPFUL HINT: Extra dressing can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. PER SIDE-DISH SERVING: 127 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 9G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 10G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 118MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN

CAFE SUNFLOWER 5975 ROSWELL ROAD, SUITE 353 ATLANTA, GA 30328 (404) 256-1675 Vegetarians in Atlanta finally have a restaurant to call their own. Last year Cafe Sunflower was named one of the "Top Ten New Restaurants in Atlanta in 1995" by the Atlanta Journal-Constitution's food critic. Depictions of sunflowers in various media fill the restaurant, which features Asian, Southwestern and European cuisines. Patrons go wild over Chef Marc Jolis' Wild Mushroom Fettuccine. Make the effort to prepare the Mushroom Stock, as it adds depth of flavor to the dish.

Wild Mushroom Fettuccine

Mushroom Stock: 3 cups roughly chopped mushrooms 1 cup chopped and washed leeks 8 whole garlic cloves 5 sprigs fresh thyme 5 bay leaves 6 Tbs. canola oil 1 Tbs. peppercorns (preferably

tricolored) 1 bunch parsley 6 cups water

Topping: 1/4 cup canola oil 4 cups mixed chopped mushrooms

(portobello, shiitake and white

button; see glossary, p. 1 1 8) 1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, soaked in

1 cup water (reserve soaking

water) 1 Tbs. minced garlic Salt and freshly ground black pepper

to taste 1 cup sun-dried tomato soaking

water 1 lb. dry fettuccine, cooked al dente

and lightly oiled

MUSHROOM STOCK: Place mushrooms, leeks, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, oil, peppercorns and parsley in large pot over medium-high heat; saute until ingredients start to brown. (Do not stir too often to allow ingredients to caramelize on bottom of pot.) When ingredients have browned and volume is reduced by half, add water. Bring to a slow boil. Reduce liquid by half. Strain stock and reserve. Makes about 3 cups.

TOPPING: Heat oil in large saute pan over high heat; add mushrooms and cook rapidly about 2 minutes (do not stir). Add sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until mushrooms are almost tender, about 2 minutes. Add k cup stock and tomato soaking water. Continue cooking to reduce liquid, I to 2 minutes.

Add pasta; cook until liquid is absorbed and pasta browns, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.