Flavoring food with herbs: to add zest to your meals, look to cultures around the world - The Herbalist - includes recipes and a list of resources

Vegetarian Times, June, 1996 by Amanda Cushman

What's the best way to bring flavor to a recipe without using salt or fat? If you said herbs, then you already know the secret to creating light, tasty meals.

In my cooking, I much prefer fresh herbs to dried, because they infuse foods with their flavor; dried herbs just don't give a dish the same depth. And with fresh herbs so widely available at supermarkets these days, you don't even need an herb garden to find them. Because some people may prefer the convenience and lower cost of dried herbs, however, I've included both fresh and dried in the tips that follow.

HOW TO SELECT AND STORE HERBS

When choosing fresh herbs, look for unblemished leaves and avoid those that are wilted, bruised or discolored. I store most of my fresh herbs in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator, wrapped in a paper towel inside a plastic bag. They'll stay good for seven to 10 days this way, and sturdier herbs - such as rosemary, thyme, oregano and sage will last even longer. I like to store more delicate herbs - including basil, parsley, mint, dill and cilantro - in a glass of water, stems down, like fresh flowers. They keep a little longer like this, and they give the fridge a lovely aroma.

To use fresh herbs, you usually need only the leaves (discard the tough stems). To remove the leaves, run two fingers down the stem in the direction opposite from which the leaves grow. Don't worry about getting rid of the tender stems at the top; these will be chopped fine with the leaves. Occasionally, a recipe may call for a whole sprig, which means you should include the stem. Whole sprigs make a beautiful and simple garnish as well. Add fresh herbs during the last 10 minutes of cooking.

When buying dried herbs, look for the leaf form instead of ground; the closer they are to their natural state, the more likely they are to retain their flavor. Purchase only small quantities and be sure to replace them every six months or so, because they tend to lose their aromatic oils over time. (A good test to see if a dried herb is still worth using is to smell it with your eyes closed; if you cannot tell what it is, toss it.) Avoid buying dried herbs from bulk bins, because they probably have been sitting on the shelf for several months.

Dried herbs are acceptable for long-cooking sauces, marinades or rubs, because then their flavors have more time to develop. Oregano, thyme, basil and mint are about the only herbs I ever use dried, and then only when fresh are unavailable. I particularly avoid dried parsley, chives, mixed herbs and "Italian seasonings," because they simply don't have enough flavor. When using dried herbs, be sure to crush them between your fingers to release their flavor; also, use half the amount specified for fresh herbs.

FLAVORFUL COMBINATIONS

Ethnic foods have never been more popular in this country, in large part because of their robust, complex flavors that come from a skillful use of herbs. One way for you to learn to use herbs successfully is to study the different herbs that typify various ethnicities. Following is a guide to a half-dozen different signature herbs of world cuisines. These are the flavors that make a dish typically Italian or undeniably French. Keep in mind that the goal here is to have fun with herbs. Experiment to find out which herbs you like with what foods. A failed experiment, after all, just means more compost for your garden. The only rule is to use a little herb at first, taste the dish, then add more if you like.

Italian cooking emphasizes rosemary, basil, oregano, garlic, Italian parsley, thyme and sage, which go well with beans, rice and, of course, pasta. These herbs can be used in any combination, but even on their own they'll provide hearty flavor. Rosemary is very aromatic and should be used sparingly; it's a pungent addition to vegetables, pastas and sauces. Sage is often used on its own with bean and potato dishes. A fresh tomato sauce can handle a good handful of fresh basil, thyme and rosemary, and a pizza or focaccia recipe is always more flavorful when enhanced with a sprinkling of thyme, rosemary or basil.

Thai food is one of my favorites and is fun to make because of the exotic ingredients, such as lemongrass, cellophane noodles and coconut milk. This cuisine tends to emphasize spices - especially chilies and curry pastes - more than herbs, but it does use a lot of cilantro, mint and occasionally basil. Use cilantro sparingly, until you're sure you and your audience like it. It's a very pungent herb, and seems to be one of those things people either love or hate; those who don't like cilantro often liken its flavor to soap. It is important to use fresh cilantro, never dried, because they have completely different flavors.

A popular cuisine with a lot of vegetarian dishes is Chinese, which features rice-based recipes. Ginger and garlic are almost always used, either alone or in combination; they augment the heat of the chilies and szechuan peppercorns often found in Chinese dishes. Fresh ginger and garlic complement each other well. Cilantro is part of this cuisine too, used mainly as a garnish or in sauces.