One hot tamale: without pork, beef and lard, our meatless Mexican marvels have plenty of flavor - includes recipes - Recipe Redux

Vegetarian Times, July, 1996 by Ken Charney

We recently moved to Edinburg, in the Rio Grande Valley, the vegetable--growing center of Texas. We were pleased to find wonderful all-vegetable, low-fat, cholesterol-free tamales served at Guerra's Family Restaurant. Mr. Guerra explained that he has changed the filling several times and now believes a mixture of carrots, corn, broccoli and cauliflower to be best. The delicately seasoned filling is encased in masa and wrapped in corn husks, then steamed. There is none of the pork meat and lard that are traditionally used in tamales. These delicious vegetable tamales, served with salsa, are popular here in this south Texas university town. They deserve to be more widely known.

aS THIS LETTER-WRITER points out, traditional tamales are made with pork or beef and lard. Being the curious sort, I wanted to try this locally famous vegetarian version myself. Luckily, no arduous journey was necessary, since Guerra's Family Restaurant and Guerra's Tortilla and Bakery has a mail-order business [(800) TAMALE8]. I was just a call away from finding out more about these meatless marvels.

I spoke with the founder and recipe developer, Eden Guerra, himself. He was generous and kind, but not forthcoming to the point where he would divulge the secret recipe for his "El Vegetal." He did agree, however, to send a dozen fresh-frozen tamales right to my door in New York City. The tamales, containing a combination of carrots, corn, broccoli and cauliflower, were indeed delicious and all-vegetarian. I decided to try to unravel the mystery of the Texas tamales, and added a few twists of my own. While I have faithfully tried to reproduce the Guerra's filling, I changed the corn flour dough that surrounds the vegetable filling and discovered an easy way to wrap the finished tamales.

The following tamale recipes are relatively easy to prepare once you locate two key ingredients: masa harina, which is made from dried corn boiled in lime, then hulled and ground into flour; and dried corn husks. Both can be found in Mexican groceries, specialty stores or in supermarkets in Mexican neighborhoods. Masa is the Mexican word for dough, and masa harina means "dough flour." Masa harina is also used to make corn tortillas.

In my version of tamales, I replace the traditional lard or other fat in the mesa dough with pureed fresh or frozen corn. The corn provides flavor and texture without adding the fat, saturated fat and cholesterol of the more traditional lard, butter and oil.

Begin making your tamales by soaking the corn husks. While they are soaking, prepare the mesa dough. Masa harina, after being mixed with water, has the consistency of a thick paste. Spread the dough over the smooth side of soaked corn husks using a butter knife or the back of a spoon that has been lightly oiled. Top the dough with your choice of bean or vegetable filling. Fold the long sides of the tamales over to the middle, then fold up the long tail of the husk to cover the seam. They can then be steamed seam-side down. Or, if you prefer, the tamales can be tied at each end and the middle with narrow strips of soaked husks or string, or folded and tied lengthwise and crosswise like a Christmas package.

Speaking of Christmas, in Mexico, it is traditional to serve tamales as a holiday treat. Families gather in the kitchen to make dozens of tamales to see them through the season. The tamales are made assembly line style--one person spreads mesa on the husks, another tops the mesa with fillings, and someone else folds and ties the bundles. You might want to try this with your own family and friends to speed preparation and increase the fun.

Tamales can be frozen prior to or after steaming for up to three months. Reheat them by steaming, boiling or microwaving in a covered dish. You may also wish to make your filling and soak the husks ahead of time. Refrigerate soaked husks in a plastic bag to keep them pliable.

Offer your tamales with your favorite hot sauce or salsa and a serving of fresh guacamole, salad or rice and beans. Or, double the spicy bean or vegetable fillings and serve them as a side dish.

Masa Dough With Fresh Corn

2 cups fresh (about 3 ears) or

thawed frozen (10 oz. package)

sweet white or yellow corn

kernels 1 cup mesa harina 1 tsp. baking powder

Salt and pepper to taste 2 tsp. maple syrup or sugar 1/2 cup water, plus additional water

by tablespoons, as needed 16 dried corn husks, soaked in

warm water until pliable (see

note) 1 cup filling of your choice

PUREE CORN in food processor. In bowl, mix by hand corn puree, mesa harina, baking powder, salt, pepper and maple syrup or sugar. Gradually stir in water until mesa is like a thick paste. It should be spreadable and not too liquid.

Pat dry corn husks. Lay one husk smooth side up on clean cutting board with narrow end facing you. Place 2 generous tablespoons of mesa dough on wide end of husk. With lightly oiled butter knife or back of spoon,. spread dough over husk, avoiding sides, 1 inch from the top wide end and narrow bottom third of husk. Place 1 tablespoon of filling in center of dough. Gently fold sides of husk toward center, overlapping slightly. Fold up narrow end over center seam; set tamale down on seam side. Don't be concerned about it being perfect--after one or two it will become easy.