Don't know beans about beans: our step-by-step guide eliminates the mystery - and the gas - includes a chart of cooking times - Getting Started

Vegetarian Times, Oct, 1996 by Timothy Aitken

MOST VEGETARIANS, old and new alike, are intimidated by bean cookery. We all have had the experience of beans that would not cook, and--yes, you can admit it--"intestinal distress." But with the help of a basic cooking technique and a magic sea vegetable, kombu, bean cooking can be both simple and octane-free.

Why bother with beans? They're the second most important plant food in the human diet (grains being number one) and one of the most ancient. Their cultivation began at about the same time as grains, circa 7.000 B.C., and they've been an invaluable asset to the food supply ever since. Beans are found in the cuisine of every culture, and they're an excellent source of protein B vitamins and iron. Their gastronomic versatility and their nutritional value make them a cornerstone of a balanced vegetarian diet.

Fortunately, preparing beans is as easy as counting them. Follow these three simple steps and you are guaranteed tender, tasty beans and the troublesome gas, which is a result of improper soaking and cooking, will be a thing of the past. Before we get to the three-step cooking method, here are some helpful hints about buying and storing your beans.

STOCKING UP

BEANS ARE EVERYWHERE. You can buy them in supermarkets, corner grocery stores, natural food stores and through mail order. Because they're so easy to find, you can afford to be choosy.

When purchasing beans, select organically grown ones. Your local natural food store probably has a good selection of organic beans sold both in bulk bins and packages. Look for whole, unbroken beans of uniform size and color with unbroken skins. (Split peas are an obvious exception. Rummaging in the bulk bins for "whole, split peas" is one way to attract the store manager's attention.)

Once home, beans should be stored in tightly covered containers in a cool, dry place. A pantry shelf or a kitchen cabinet away from the heat of the stove is perfect. Some cooks like to store their beans in wide-mouthed Mason jars. The quart size is great for most households and the different colors of the beans make them an attractive addition to any kitchen. If storing beans in clear containers, make sure that they are out of direct sunlight, as this will bleach their color and alter their taste.

Nature designed whole beans to last in storage indefinitely, but they are best used within a year of harvest. Older beans will not cook thoroughly and are more likely to give you gas. Because you have no way of knowing how long that bag of pintos has been sitting on the grocer's shelf, use it within six months of purchase.

COOKING: THREE EASY STEPS

STEP 1: Sorting, washing and soaking

Dried beans are a product of the field and need to visually inspected for small stones, clumps of dirt and bits of foreign matter that are sometimes harvested along with the beans. Any broken beans must be removed as well, because they will not cook evenly. The easiest way to sort beans is on a large white plate. Place a single layer of beans on the plate and remove any unwanted items. After a little practice, this can be done very quickly. Some cooks sort their beans before placing them in storage containers so that they are ready to use at any time.

Next the beans must be I washed. Place them in a large bowl or pot and cover them with four to six cups of water per cup of dry beans. (As a general guideline, one cup of dried beans makes approximately 3 cups cooked.) Gently swirl the beans in the water and remove any beans that float. These are hollow and will not cook properly. Pour off the water. If the water is particularly dirty, wash the beans again. Special care should be taken when washing split peas as their starches are exposed and will leach out into the washing water. The washing water will appear cloudy as if dirty, but it is not. Wash split peas quickly to avoid the loss of nutrients and flavor.

Before cooking, most beans need to be soaked in water. Beans are soaked for two reasons: to remove indigestible sugars that cause flatulence and to decrease cooking time. All beans except for aduki, lentil, mung and split peas should be soaked.

Place washed beans in a bowl or pot. Cover with four cups fresh water for each cup of dry beans. Continue with one of the following soaking methods:

1. Let soaking beans sit at room temperature for eight hours. 2. Refrigerate soaking beans for 24 hours. 3. Place beans and water in a pot, bring to a boil, skim any foam that forms and simmer for five minutes, covered. Turn off flame and let sit, covered, for two hours.

Drain soaking liquid If using soaking method 1 or 2, rinse the beans again. Now the beans are ready for cooking.

Step 2: Cooking

Place the beans in a heavy pot that has a tight-fighting lid. This will ensure proper cooking. Add fresh water or vegetable stock to the beans, four cups for each cup of beans (the original, unsoaked measure) or enough liquid to cover by one inch. Bring to a boil uncovered and skim any foam that forms. Add the sea vegetable and other seasonings (see Step 3). Cover and turn heat down to a simmer (a very gentle boil). The beans should be covered by liquid throughout the entire cooking time. Add more stock or water if the level of liquid drops below the top of the beans. Cook beans according to the chart. Hard water will prevent certain beans from cooking properly. If you have hard water, cook your beans in bottled or filtered water. Salt and acidic ingredients will impede cooking and should be added at the end (see Step 3).