Essential Edibles Cafe and Market. - Indianapolis, Indiana - restaurant reviews

Vegetarian Times, Oct, 1996 by Amy Lapinsky

HALLOWED HALLS

GRADUATES OF CATHOLIC schools beware: Legend has it that after dark nuns still roam through the dining rooms of Essential Edibles, a converted Catholic girls' school, says owner David Hostetter. The restaurant began as a small non-vegetarian catering business in the dilapidated basement of the school in downtown Indianapolis. When the demand for wife Rebecca Hostetter's flavorful recipes increased, they opened their holy gates to the public--exposing the basement's falling ceiling tiles, wires, heating pipes and a vegetarian menu unfamiliar to most of those living in the heartland of the beef industry. "It's a pretty bizarre little setup we have, but people really like us," David says.

The Hostetters filled the concrete. windowless classrooms with second-hand booths, plastic garden furniture and antiques, lit it with white Christmas lights and created an ambiance and menu that attracts folks who can cope with the absence of white tablecloths. Less than 20 percent of the restaurant's clientele are vegetarians, and many don't remark on the menu's omission of meat. "You just have to have fantastic food and then no one will notice the absence," Rebecca says.

No uniforms are required at the casual eatery, where Indiana's governor sometimes dines among hippies, business people and university students. The eclectic diners and decor extend to the menu, which is revamped quarterly for a fresh mix of vegetarian and vegan fare.

Some of this season's unique menu items include non-dairy vegetable caviar served on toast points: specialty Indian entrees: barbecued vegetarian ribs made with tempeh: and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich covered with gorgonzola butter and a roasted red pepper vinaigrette. A few favorite selections never change, such as oven-roasted Killer Potatoes made with rosemary: stir-fried organic rice and vegetables and a roasted eggplant sandwich topped with tomato chutney, fontina cheese and watercress. Blackboards left from long-ago school days display the daily specials, including soup and pasta selections. Dessert is never neglected--the restaurant's award-winning jewel is a flourless torte made with a pound of Belgium chocolate.

Within the main restaurant and also at the 49th Street location, a bakery and market allow faithful customers to take home specialty breads and pastries along with a selection of hot menu items. It's so good, it's almost worth getting your uniform out of mothballs.