Mighty millet: this nutrition-packed, mild-flavored grain isn't just for the birds - includes recipe

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1997 by Karen Cope Straus

Before rice and wheat came to dominate the world's table, the grain from a hardy grass, millet, was a staple in the human diet. Even today, the ancient grain sustains a third of the world's population, primarily in the hot, dry parts of Africa and Asia. Millet preceded rice as a staple in China but then virtually disappeared. In most Western countries, millet is sold primarily as birdseed.

However, change is on the horizon. Interest in authentic, traditional African and Indian cooking is raising millet from its humble position as bird food. Millet's mild flavor lends itself as a background for a variety of flavors. Flavor enhancers include curry, chili powder, orange, rosemary, onion, chives, parsley, black pepper, bay leaf, thyme, garlic and ginger. To bring out the grain's nutty flavor, toast it in a dry skillet, stirring constantly, until it gives off a nutlike aroma, about three minutes.

It's soft, cohesive texture and quick cooking make it ideal for side dishes, stuffing, burgers and casseroles. Small amounts cooked with stews and soups provide body. Leftover cooked millet splashed with dressing easily forms the basis for a grain and vegetable salad. The grain's crunchy texture and mild flavor make it a nice change from more familiar grains. Try combining millet with quinoa, brown rice or basmati rice for interesting flavor and texture combinations.

Millet flour is used in puddings, breads and cake. The flour must be freshly ground or it can impart a bitter flavor. For best results, grind in a coffee or flour mill or a blender. The flavor of the flour is mildly sweet and produces baked goods with a dry delicate crumb and a buttery smooth thin crust. In quick bread, cookie and muffin recipes, try a ratio of half millet flour and half another flour such as whole wheat or brown rice. Because millet is gluten-free, use 1/2 to 3/4 cup per loaf in yeasted recipes with flour containing gluten.

THE SCOOP ON MILLET

* Product forms. Millet grains look like tiny yellow spheres. Buy bright, golden-colored millet sold specifically for human consumption. Millet from feed stores or pet shops contains the indigestible outer hull. Look for plump, unbroken grains with uniform size and color. Millet and millet flour can be found in natural food markets and Asian food shops.

* Preparation. To cook 1 cup raw millet, bring 2 1/2 cups water and millet to a boil. Cover pot with a tight lid, reduce heat to medium-low and cook 15 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let sit uncovered for 15 minutes for optimum flavor and texture. For a softer texture similar to mashed potatoes, increase the water to 3 1/2 cups and simmer, covered, until water is absorbed, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Use 5 cups water or a combination of water and fruit juice or water and milk or soymilk to make millet into a rich, creamy hot cereal or snack.

Press warm, cooked millet into a lightly oiled baking dish and allow to cool, then slice into polenta-like strips or squares. Muffin cups or individual souffle dishes can be used to make timbales.

* Nutrition. In addition to phosphorus, B vitamins and iron, millet is high in lysine, an essential amino acid, making it a good source of protein with 3 grams per cup. Millet is hulled, but the bran remains intact. Because it is alkaline, millet is soothing and easy to digest.

* Storage. Store millet at a moderate temperature (around 70 degrees) for up to six months in clean, air-tight containers such as glass jars with lids or rigid plastic containers with good seals. Store millet flour in the freezer and use as quickly as possible.

Orange and Gold

Millet Terrine

The layers of pale gold millet and pureed carrots make this elegant terrine worth the extra effort. Recipe adapted from Vegetarian Times Complete Cookbook, by the Editors of Vegetarian Times (Macmillan, 1995).

3 cups sliced carrots
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1 Tbs. honey or maple syrup
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1/2 cup white wine or vegetable
broth
2 scallions, chopped
1/2 cup minced onion
2 cups chopped white button
mushrooms
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. dried basil
1/4 tsp. dried thyme
3 cups cooked millet
2 eggs, lightly beaten or equivalent
Egg Replacer (see glossary, p. 110)
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup plain nonfat yogurt or soy
yogurt
1/2 cup soft whole wheat bread
crumbs
1 1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. tamari (see glossary, p. 110)
or soy sauce
1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper
8 to 10 lettuce leaves

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil 9- by 5-inch loaf pan.

In saucepan fitted with steamer, steam carrots until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain. Puree carrots in blender or food processor with cardamom and honey or maple syrup; set aside.

In large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil and wine or broth until bubbling. Add scallions and onion. Cook, stirring until limp, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms, garlic, coriander, basil and thyme. Cook, stirring, until mushrooms release moisture, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in remaining ingredients except lettuce.