Milk by many other names: a cook's guide to dairy and non-dairy "milks." - includes recipes and tips on cooking

Vegetarian Times, March, 1997 by Nancy Ross Ryan

"A Rose by any other name would smell just as sweet," Shakespeare pointed out. And although milk by any other name may taste as sweet to drink, its alternatives certainly do not smell, taste or perform the same in cooking. Dairy and non-dairy milks are not interchangeable in the kitchen. I found this out when -- from the milk of human kindness -- I began cooking special dishes at family parties for my beloved daughter-in-law Gigi, who is lactose-intolerant.

Poor Gigi! Before I learned my way around the various milk alternatives, she endured and ingested some peculiar dishes: mashed potatoes made with virgin olive oil and soy milk (faintly sweet and metallic, setting one's teeth on edge); a rice, green pea and cheese-alternative casserole made with rice milk. (Did someone put cheese in the rice pudding -- and leave out the-raisins?) And not to mention possibly the worst flavor mismatch, potato-chive soup made with almond milk (it can only be described as "dusty").

To learn about cooking with milk alternatives, I set about tasting and testing milks: cow's, goat's, soy, rice, almond and oat. What follows is a profile of the products with recommendations for use in cooking and some comments based on personal experience.

Some generalizations: Flavored milk and milk alternatives -- chocolate, carob, vanilla, etc. -- are great for drinking but not for cooking. For cooking, choose the unflavored versions. All the products profiled are unflavored. These are also good, well-chilled, on cereals, to make hot cocoa and in coffee and black tea. Instructions on non-dairy milks urge the user to shake well before using -- read that "Shake very, very well." The good news: There are enough milk alternatives on the market to prepare any recipe in a cook's repertoire.

COW'S MILK

Creamy, neutral flavor. Most versatile for cooking. High in calcium. Not recommended for lactose-intolerant people or those who are sensitive to alpha S1 casein, the major protein in cow's milk. Available forms: Powdered in whole and nonfat varieties; powdered buttermilk; canned evaporated whole and skim milk; aseptic pack, dated and shelf-stable. Fresh comes in whole, 2 percent fat, 1 percent fat and skim milk, mostly pasteurized. It is possible to find raw, unpasteurized milk at small local dairies. Some dairies offer both fresh and dried cow's milk that is free of bovine growth hormone (BGH) and/or antibiotics. Ingredients: Cow's milk Cooking pros: Heat stable. Adds rich mellow flavor to recipes and is the most versatile milk for cooking. Buttermilk is excellent in muffins and pancakes and in baked goods where the major leavener is baking soda. Cooking cons: Evaporated, aseptically packed, shelf-stable and some brands of powdered milk have a slightly caramelized flavor. These are less desirable for use in the most delicate desserts, such as vanilla custard, rice pudding, banana cream pie, etc. Ideal for: All forms of cooking, savory and sweet. Comments: Some vegetarians avoid cow's milk because the animals are exploited as "milk machines," and their male offspring supply the veal market. For those who want to include dairy in their diets, I recommend they seek out fresh and powdered organic, nonfat milk. Although it costs more than other versions, the differences are worth it.

GOAT'S MILK

Creamy rich flavor. Useful for individuals who consume dairy but are sensitive to the alpha S1 casein in cow's milk. Goat milk contains only traces of this protein. More easily digested than cow's milk because fat globules do not "cluster." High in calcium. Available forms: Powdered; canned evaporated; aseptic pack, dated, shelfstable. Fresh in whole and I percent fat, pasteurized. Ingredients: Goat's milk. Cooking pros: Creamy rich flavor enhances savory and sweet dishes. Heat stable. Very versatile. Cooking cons: As with cow's milk, goat's milk in evaporated and aseptic packaging is best reserved for desserts with strong flavors such as spice cake. While fresh goat's milk is quite mild, the aseptic and evaporated varieties can have a pronounced, tangy flavor that is noticeable in delicate desserts such as rice pudding, banana cream pie, vanilla pudding and the like. Ideal for All recipes, savory and sweet. Comments: Fresh, 1 percent goat's milk has a creamy flavor that belies its low-fat content. Similar animal exploitation issues as cow's milk.

SOY MILK

Nutty, faintly sweet flavor. Useful for individuals who are lactose-intolerant. Available forms: Powdered; aseptic, dated, shelf-stable, in full-fat, low-fat and nonfat styles. Also, aseptic quarts m concentrate (add equal volume water). Many brands are enriched with added calcium and vitamins A and D. Common Ingredients: Filtered water, organic soy beans, brown rice syrup and sea salt. May also contain soy protein, malted barley, carageenan (sea vegetable), kombu (sea vegetable), canola oil, sunflower oil and Job's Tears (a cereal grain related to millet). Cooking cons: Heat stable. Good replacement for dairy milk in many dishes. Cooking cons: Pronounced flavor not suitable for white sauces, mashed potatoes, cream soups and delicate desserts. Ideal for: Breads, cornbread, muffins, whole grain pancake and waffle batter, cereal, curries, high-flavor "cheese" sauces, baked goods with strong flavors (spice cakes, bar cookies, pumpkin tea bread, etc.). Comments: Because it is so convenient, powdered soy milk has become one of my pantry staples.