Science discovers Greek civilization - health advantages of Greek cooking - includes recipes

Vegetarian Times, May, 1997 by Mirsini Lampraki

Greek cooking makes exquisite use of the gifts of nature. As they did centuries ago, gatherers from the shores, fields and mountains pick wild greens and seaweeds, not just as accoutrements to their meals, but as mainstays of their diet. Purslane, mallow, leeks, fennel, sorrel and nettles -- foods that we find rare and precious -- have been part of the Greek diet from the days of Homer. Vegetables, greens, roots, mushrooms and bulbs make up a vital part of Greek cooking. Nurtured by the warm Mediterranean sun, the country's soil offers up these gifts as if making an offering to its ancient gods and hearty citizens.

The longevity of these people has been the subject of much scientific research since the late 1940s. As scientists scour the world searching for models of healthy lifestyles, they have settled on the Greek diet -- specifically the diet of residents of the picturesque island of Crete -- as one that enhances longevity. Researchers believe there is something inherent in the Greek diet that protects the population from coronary heart disease and some cancers. The diet is made more perplexing in scientific circles because it contains a great deal of fat, at least as far as Americans are concerned. The source is olive oil. However, just adding olive oil to a Central or Northern European diet or American menu won't do the trick. Sales of olive oil have skyrocketed in the United States in recent years, yet we don't seem to be any healthier.

No, as any scientist would tell you, there are too many variables in the research to say it is one item that is protecting Greek citizens from the ravages of 19th- and 20th-century diseases. The fact is, the diet is full of antioxidants, fiber and variety based on what's in season.

To many Greeks, the celebrity of their diet is a curiosity. Mirsini Lampraki, who developed these recipes, has been cooking delicious, vegetarian Greek food for many years. Her newest book, The Edible Flora of Greece (Trohalia, 1996), is developed around the idea that simple foods are best, simply prepared. Her preferred cooking methods are braising, boiling or lightly frying. To deliver color and flavor, she mixes wild greens with cultivated vegetables and legumes with cereals. While the ingredients such as flavor beans, pomegranates, black sesame seeds and quince may seem unfamiliar and perhaps a little hard to find, they are worth the search. Try an Italian grocery or, of course, a Greek deli. While these aren't your typical Greek dishes, they are fresh, light and wonderful. Plus, they're easy to make. Enjoy them in good health!

Black-eyed Peas with Fennel

Fennel adds a distinct flavor to this simple salad of legumes and tomatoes.

2 cups diced fennel bulb 1 large onion, chopped 1/4 cup olive oil 1 cup water 3 cups cooked or canned

black-eyed peas 2 tomatoes, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper

to taste

In Large Saucepan, saute fennel and onion lightly in olive oil. Add water and simmer for 20 minutes. Add peas, tomatoes, salt and pepper and a little more water to prevent sticking if necessary. Simmer for 10 minutes more. Serve warm or cold. Makes 6 servings.

PER 1-CUP SERVING: 217 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 10G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 27G CARB,; 0 CHOL.; 126MG SOD.; 5G FIbER. VEGAN

Vegetable Salad with Curly Endive and Olives

This cooked vegetable salad becomes a meal when accompanied by crusty bread spread with soft Greek cheese.

4 fresh beets, trimmed and finely

chopped 2 potatoes, cut into 4 to 8 pieces 2 carrots, sliced 1/4 lb. curly endive (see glossary, P.110) 6 small zucchini, cut into 1 inch

chunks 3/4 cup kalamata olives, pitted and

chopped (see glossary, p. 110) 1/2 cup capers, rinsed (see glossary,

p. 110) 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 1/2 tsp. salt or to taste 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Bring a Large pot of water to a boil. Add beets, potatoes and carrots. Boil for 10 minutes; add endive. Continue to boil for 10 to 15 minutes; add zucchini. Reduce heat and simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes. Remove endive with slotted spoon and spread on large serving platter. Remove remaining vegetables and place on top of endive or chard. Scatter olives and capers over vegetables.

In small bowl, whisk together vinegar and salt with a little warm water. While whisking, add oil m slow stream; mix until oil is well incorporated. Pour over salad and serve warm or cold. Makes 10 servings. PER 1-CUP SERVING: 176 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 9G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 22G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 506MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. VEGAN

Artichokes Stuffed with Rice and Yogurt

1 cup rice 1 small leek, finely chopped 3 Tbs. fresh dill, finely chopped 3 onions, finely chopped, divided 6 large artichokes 1/4 cup olive oil 1 cup water 1 tsp. salt 1 1/2 cups low-fat yogurt 2 Tbs. while wine 1 egg, beaten Salt and freshly ground pepper

to taste

Cook rice in 2 cups boiling water, until almost tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain. in large bowl, combine rice, leek, dill and 2 chopped onions.

Prepare artichokes by cutting stems evenly so artichokes stand on their own. With a serrated knife, cut off top portion of artichoke. Remove large outer leaves and snip off tops of any pointed leaves. Spread leaves open. With knife or grapefruit spoon, remove chokes at base of artichokes. Fill artichokes with rice mixture and set aside.