A vegetarian in paradise: the aloha spirit makes Hawaii a friendlier place for vegetarians - Traveling Fare

Vegetarian Times, May, 1997 by Roxanne Nelson

The food of Hawaii reflects the cultural diversity of its people: American, Japanese, Chinese, Hawaiian, Korean, Filipino with touch of German and a smattering of Portuguese. Add to that tropical fruits and a terrain resplendent with vegetation and you should have enough good eating to satisfy any palate. Unfortunately, Hawaiians are famous for their love of greasy diner food, even Spam, the canned pork that is the butt of mainland jokes. And upscale restaurants are heavy on the seafood and steak category because the surrounding oceans are teeming with fish, and cattle ranching is a lucrative island enterprise. These factors conspire to make a culinary desert out of what ought to be a vegetarian paradise.

On my last few visits to Hawaii, though, I've made happy discovery: Vegetarians have made deep dents. I was pleasantly surprised to find a veggie burger offered at a diehard burger place. And at a tiny snack shop along a dusty rural road, a chef cheerfully left the meat off of my taco salad. The aloha spirit has opened these lovely islands to vegetarians. Now it is possible to go virtually anywhere on any of the islands and find at least one meatless dish.

OAHU

Of the six major islands in the Hawaiian archipelago, Oahu and Maui receive the most visitors. Chances are, if this is your first trip to Hawaii, you will end up on one or both of those islands. Oahu is home to nearly three quarters of Hawaii's population, the bustling capital of Honolulu, and Hawaii's premier resort area, that strip of golden sand known as Waikiki.

The vast majority of Oahu's large hotels are crammed in or round Waikiki Beach, along with a plethora of shopping and some 2,000 eateries, covering a range of ethnicities and prices. And this wealth of options doesn't include all of the restaurants that can easily be reached just beyond the borders of Waikiki.

So where to begin? With all of the restaurants to choose from, I have selected a few based on location, quality of food and ambiance. We can start in the heart of Waikiki, at the not-quite-100 percent vegetarian Ruffage Natural Foods ([808] 922-2042). Like most dining spots in this area, Ruffage is within walking distance from the beach; unlike many, it serves burritos, sandwiches, chili and sushi -- all vegetarian. For romantic sunset watching over Waikiki Beach, have a nightcap at the Sheraton Surfrider Moana Hotel, the area's oldest hotel. Step out back, where a large poolside restaurant-bar spreads out almost to the sandy beach. A grilled vegetable platter is $4.95, and the view is priceless.

Another historic spot, where Robert Lows Stevenson liked to hang out, is the Hau Tree Restaurant at the New Otani Kaimana Hotel ([808] 923-1555) set in the shadow of Diamond Head Crater. The lunch menu offers several vegetarian selections such as eggplant patties and salads. Dinner has at least one main meatless entree, such as vegetarian pizza or garden burger.

Visitors to Hawaii will also be tempted to sample the authentic Hawaiian cuisine, called the luau, offered in many hotels and restaurants. These feasts are festive and communal. Properly prepared, they can offer a glimpse into the pre- Westernized Hawaiian lifestyle. But be forewarned: The native Hawaiians were not vegetarian. While starch, in the form of crushed taro root was their staple, they did consume large quantities of meat and fish. (If the sight of a whole pig being baked over a rotisserie turns you off, steer dear of the luau.) But if you want to sample poi, a purplish-gray side dish made from mashed taro root that is either delicious or pasty -- depending on whom you ask -- head to the food court in the Ala Moana Shopping Center, one of world's largest outdoor malls.

Just up the road from Ala Moana is the Ward Centre, a smaller shopping mall with two superb restaurants. Sit indoors or out and enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at Mocha Java ([808] 591-9023), named the best vegetarian restaurant by the Honolulu Weekly. I had a yummy tofu scramble for breakfast and returned the next day to sample die vegetarian curry crepe. Ethnic Asian food is always a good bet on the islands, and Keo's, near Diamond Head, offers some of the best Thai on the islands. This award-winning, veg-friendly restaurant is open for dinner only ([808] 737-8240).

If you're renting a condo or your hotel room comes equipped with a kitchenette, stock up on groceries at Down to Earth ([808] 947-7678), a well-stocked natural food market. They also have a large take-out prepared-food section and a wonderful all-veggie cafe. Seating space is very limited, so grab something and head to Oahu's North Shore, about an hour's drive from Honolulu, to catch a glimpse of the 30-foot waves crashing along the beach. This is the undisputed surfing capital of the world. The surrounding area is lush and verdant about five degrees cooler than Honolulu and almost completely unspoiled, save for surf boards dotting the waves.

Afterward, head to nearby Haleiwa, a tiny town filled with art galleries, trendy shops, two natural food stores and one of the best vegetarian restaurants on Oahu, The Coffee Gallery ([808] 637-5571). Located along the North Shore Marketplace, this casual spot serves salads, sandwiches and delectable pastas.