Getting to the root of beautiful hair: shiny, silky hair begins with a healthy scalp - includes list of resources and a recipe for an herbal scalp tonic

Vegetarian Times, Oct, 1997 by Amy O'Connor

2 Oily scalp is another hereditary condition aggravated by stress, exercise, infrequent shampooing, excess conditioning or anything else that overstimulates hair follicles so they release extra oil called sebum. Even if your hair is dry and damaged, your scalp can still be oily. So if you're slathering on moisturizing treatments to no avail, you may have an oily scalp. Tea tree oil's natural antiseptic properties can help prevent the dandruff that so often affects an oily scalp. If both your hair and scalp are oily, try Tea Tree Solutions Keep-The-Clean Shampoo, All-Day-Shine conditioner and Scalp Tonic, which contain organically grown tea tree oil in combination with fragrant oils such as patchouli, lavender and geranium. To break up oily deposits, try the jojoba treatment for dry scalp. Summer's heat and humidity stimulate oil production, which necessitates daily shampooing and oil-free rinses.

3 Flaky scalp is caused either by an excessively dry scalp or by dead skin cells mingling with styling products, sebum and pollutants. Combined with bacteria, any one of these conditions can lead to the type of clumpy buildup that typifies dandruff, says Philip Kingsley, a London-based hair care specialist and author of Hair, An Owner's Handbook (Aurum Press Ltd., 1995). Depending on whether your scalp is essentially dry or oily, the above treatments can help.

4 Dandruff is almost invariably associated with an oily scalp. The characteristic detritus forms when flaky scalp parts absorb sebum and other secretions and clump along the hair shaft. Scalps flake when dead skin cells mingle with styling products, sebum and pollutants. Dandruff--though embarrassing--is relatively easy to tame with the oily scalp treatments listed previously. More entrenched conditions may require a doctor's visit. If dandruff is accompanied by a bleeding scalp or hair loss, consult a dermatologist.

NATURAL NOURISHMENT

Whatever scalp type you have, herbs can help bring it into balance, according to Aubrey Hampton, president of Tampa, Fla.-based Aubrey Organics. Balsam, an herb from South America, builds hair strength, adds a pleasant fragrance and reduces oily buildup. Many of Aubrey's products also contain aloe vera gel, which softens hair and normalizes oily or dry scalp, and horsetail and coltsfoot, two herbs rich in amino acids. Hampton says these work to rebuild the hair's shaft, heal breakage, and encourage the growth of healthy hair. Aveda's Scalp Remedy, an emollient tonic, contains echinacea, an herb that's popular as a cold remedy but that also makes an excellent moisturizer and scalp soother. Chamomile tea makes a great hair rinse, calms the scalp and brings out blonde highlights.

Of course, you can nourish your scalp from the inside too. Any vitamins and minerals that are good for your face are likely to be good for your scalp, says Albert Kligman, M.D., professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine. Tea Tree Solutions Hair and Nails multivitamin is a good product to try; it contains antioxidant vitamins and minerals and is rich in unsaturated fatty acids that promote normal oil flow on the scalp and carry nutrients throughout the body. Antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C and E, can control oily scalp and speed the turnover of dead skin cells.