Take comfort

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1998 by Melissa Clark

A bubbling, cast-iron pot sends hearty aromas wafting through your home, luring even the most jaded eater to the kitchen to see what's cooking. On dreary winter days, a simmering pot warms the body, eases the mind, and reassures the spirit that weather is only skin deep. It is so much easier to take the cold when one glows from the inside out with the goodness of a slow-cooked, nourishing meal.

Generations of cooks have taken pleasure in stirring filled-to-the-brim cauldrons--transforming bountiful ingredients into a gracious welcome pot of dinner, with plenty to go around for family and friends. While grandma's cast-iron kettle may have gone the way of the Model T, the cauldron concept still retains a revered place in the American imagination as the ultimate symbol of comfort food--even if we reach for an enamel, copper or nonstick pot when we're doing the cooking.

Of course, what goes into the pot matters just as much as the pot itself. For vegetarians, the options are nearly limitless, with seasonal availability and preference the only constraints. Dried beans and grains are obvious choices because they are warming foods that can withstand the rigors of boiling. Seasonal vegetables, added after the beans and/or grains are tender; add color and depth of flavor without falling apart. If you decide to bake the pot, any vegetable will mellow and sweeten under the oven's slow, even heat.

The various one-pot comfort meals assembled here are all deeply rooted in the traditions of the American table. And at this time of year, dipping into a steaming bowl of one of these robust dishes can take you back to a simpler time when everything was all right after just one filling bowl. Go ahead. Pamper yourself. These meals can help banish the chill on the frostiest of days.

Soft Corn Pudding and Greens

8 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

This creamy pudding recipe uses two American favorites: collard greens and cornmeal. While the egg lightens and enriches the dish, it isn't absolutely necessary; feel free to leave it out or substitute 2 egg whites.

1 Tbs. olive oil
1 1/2 lbs. collard greens, tough stems
  removed and leaves coarsely
  shredded (see glossary, p. 110)
1 clove garlic, minced
4 cups low-fat milk, rice milk or soy milk
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
1 1/3 cups fine yellow cornmeal
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 cup shredded low-fat, extra-sharp cheddar cheese
1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage
1/2 tsp. hot pepper sauce or to taste
1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg

Per serving: 201 cal.; 6g prot.; 6g total fat (0 sat. fat); 31 g carb.; 0 chol.; 890mg sod.; 2g fiber.

Winter Vegetable Stew

8 SERVINGS VEGAN

Root vegetables and fresh mushrooms combine in a dried mushroom-infused broth. Despite its many ingredients, this delicious stew is remarkably easy to make. Serve with crusty bread for a very satisfying meal.

1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
(see glossary, p. 110)
3/4 cup boiling vegetable stock or canned broth
3 Tbs. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 large red onion or leek, chopped
3 medium carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 celery root, peeled and cut into
1-inch cubes (see glossary, p. 110)
10 oz. white button mushrooms,
  quartered
4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems
removed, caps sliced
  (see glossary, p. 110)
4 oz. portobello mushrooms, stems
removed, caps sliced
  (see glossary, p. 110)
1/2 cup dry red wine or vegetable stock
2 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
  or 2 tsp. dried
1 strip orange peel, 1 inch wide by
3 inches long
  Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans
2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley for garnish