It's a veg world, after all

Vegetarian Times, Feb, 1998 by Susan Shumaker, Than Saffel

Even more surprising than a talking mouse is the bounty of delicious meatless meals at America's top tourist attraction.

The first thing you notice from the 15th-floor penthouse is the view: a breathtaking panorama of earth and sky through clear plate glass. The room itself, a contemporary art deco masterpiece, reminds you of a 1930s ocean liner, with its square wall panels, circular windows and tall vases of brushed aluminum. Colorful designs, inspired by the abstractions of Klee and Kandinsky, repeat in the upholstery, the carpets--even in the vest of the waiter who guides you to your table.

The crowd dining here this evening is an eclectic mix of professional couples, groups of friends out toasting the end of the week, families with kids in tow. The open kitchen's sushi counters, pastry stations and huge oak-fired grill are abuzz with activity. If God is in the details, this meal should be divine.

The appetizers arrive first. Chef Clifford Pleau's chilled gazpacho, tart with vinegar and topped with fresh guacamole, is followed by savory brick-oven flatbread, smothered with grilled mushrooms, roasted garlic, caramelized red onions and feta cheese. Your companion's avocado and vegetable roll may be the most delectable vegetarian sushi you've ever tasted.

And it's uphill from here with entries, such as the mesquite-roasted tofu, summer vegetable risotto and "Vegetarian Unplugged," a medley of meatless and vegan side dishes arranged, tapas-style, in little bowls on a platter.

Hours later, completely sated, you sip after-dinner drinks. The lights dim and all eyes turn toward the wall of plate glass facing west. Fireworks explode in the night sky as music, in synch with the display, is piped into the restaurant.

Wondering where such a feast for the senses is to be had? Overlooking the Thames, perhaps? On the banks of the Seine? How about midtown Manhattan? Nope. Try Orlando, Fla., in the heart of Disney World.

Make no mistake--Walt Disney World's (WDW) parks and resorts are still filled with opportunities to grab a burger or cut into a slab of steak. But it's just as easy to get your hands on a healthful nature burger and bunch of grapes, a hummus and tabbouleh roll-up or a bean burrito.

Of course, Disney would be one of the first corporations to pick up on the trend toward healthful, vegetarian dining. The visionary company has always been at the forefront of the entertainment and technology fields and has led the corporate world in recycling initiatives, volunteerism and extension of benefits to the same-sex partners of employees. Even skeptics have to admit: When Disney does something, they do it to the hilt. After all, what is now, for better or worse, the largest temple of pleasure and commerce on earth--43 square miles of theme parks, resorts, restaurants and merchandise areas--was once but a twinkle in Uncle Watt's eye.

FOOD MISSIONARIES

The revolution in Disney's attitude toward food actually began in 1988, when European chef and inveterate foodie Dieter Hannig was tapped to open 22 new restaurants at Disneyland Paris. The marathon runner and self-described "near-vegetarian" had spent the previous 14 years working for Hilton International.

Hannig's first order of business was to change the way Disney went about preparing and serving food. When he arrived, each restaurant was under the command of a single executive chef, essentially a manager in chefs clothing. And that person would leave at 6 p.m.--just as the guests were beginning to arrive. As a result, apathy, frustration and mediocre food were the order of the day.

But Hannig believed that the food could become an attraction in itself. "You can have an incredible stage set and build great restaurant attractions," he says. "But at the end of the day, you're only as good as the last meal you serve." Toward that end, he made it a priority to hire top chefs who shared his passion for excellent food, then let them run their own show. "It's amazing to see what talented, passionate people can create once you give them free reign to do what they do best." And in doing so, he got restaurants that won praise even from notoriously picky French critics.

His success wasn't lost on the powers-that-be in Orlando and Anaheim. "All of a sudden they realized that food and beverage are important," Hannig says, with a touch of irony. After he came to WDW in 1992, all but one of the chefs who worked with him in Paris followed him to Florida. That small team has been the force behind the change in food in Orlando. And not only has the quality improved, so has the diversity in vegetarian options "I have always found a lot of enrichment and fun in exploring different cultures," says Hannig. "And I just love vegetarian food. My colleagues called me the Tofu King."

"Ten years ago, there wasn't much to talk about," admits Franz Kranzfelder, manager of menu development and culinary standards at WDW. "But now we have about 15 top chefs with great talents. And you'll see them in the kitchen on a daily basis. They are passionately involved in cooking. That was a big change for this company. We don't have kitchen generals anymore, we have missionaries--people who are standing up for what they believe in."