Ancient waves of grain

Vegetarian Times, March, 1998 by Sarah Bush

Though they are frequently referred to as "new grains," farro, quinoa, kamut and amaranth are actually some of the oldest foods on earth. Ancient civilizations grew them and revered them enough to often use them as money and as offerings for sacrificial ceremonies. Today, these flavorful, protein-packed grains are again finding an avid audience. They line the shelves of natural food stores, gourmet shops and supermarkets. They appear on the menus of upscale, trendy restaurants and fill pages of numerous cookbooks and articles. Here's a run-down on each of these fascinating old-world grains and some of the wonderful ways you can enjoy them.

Farro

They say an army marches on its stomach, and it's quite likely the great Roman legions marched steadfastly through Italy knowing that their next meal would be a hearty bowl of farro. After centuries of gracing the rustic tables of Tuscany and parts of northern Italy, this rather nondescript grain is popping up in dishes served at trendy Italian restaurants on these shores.

Farro (pronounced FAHR-oh) is not wheat, but a plant and grain all its own. A farro grain looks like light brown rice and has a nutty taste that's reminiscent of oats and barley. Lighter than other whole grains, farro, contains a starch similar to Arborio rice, which releases a creamy, binding liquid when cooked, hence it's attraction to restaurateurs who often use it in risotto-type dishes. Farro may also be ground into flour and used to make pasta and baked goods.

Rich in fiber, magnesium and vitamins A, B, C and E, farro is easily digested and low in gluten, which makes it a good choice for those who are wheat-sensitive. The downside to this wonder grain is its price: Imported from Italy, it costs on average $5.00 per pound. And while it's not widely stocked, it is well worth the search (see Source Guide, p. 41). Some recipes will give spelt or wheat berries as an alternative, but this is a misguided suggestion that can create chaos for the cook.

Amaranth

The ancient Aztecs were so fond of amaranth, they harvested bushels of this tiny seed-like grain, which they then sent to Emperor Montezuma in tribute. High in protein (one cup contains 28 grams), amaranth also has a remarkable lifespan. Whereas most grains, like wheat or corn, remain viable for about 10 years, amaranth lasts for centuries--when archaeologists planted the seeds they found scattered at an Aztec ruin, they took root successfully.

To cook amaranth, toast seeds in a dry skillet until they pop like miniature popcorn--they add a crunchy, mildly spicy flavor to soups, stews and vegetables. Or just eat them by the handful as a snack.

Cooking amaranth with water or broth creates a mixture similar to grits that makes a delicious side dish or stuffing. And, like farro, amaranth also can be ground into flour--a good choice for those with wheat allergies because it's low in gluten.

Kamut

The word kamut (pronounced KAH-moot) comes from the ancient Egyptian word for wheat. Approximately two or three times the size of whole wheat berries, ounce for ounce kamut has a higher nutritional profile than most grains (one cup contains 24 grams protein and 20 grams fiber); it's also low in fat (less than 3 grams per cup) and is easy to digest. With its pleasant chewiness and distinct buttery taste, kamut can be used in salads or ground into flour and used in baked dishes or made into delicious pasta. Also low in gluten, it can successfully replace one third of the flour in a bread recipe.

This grain grows well domestically and is readily available in natural food stores. Whenever possible, buy the grain from the refrigerated section of stores and keep it in the refrigerator at home.

Quinoa

Although new to North America, where it's grown in the Pacific Northwest, quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) has been cultivated in the South American Andes for thousands of years. Known as the "mother grain" and regarded as sacred by the Incas, it is still a major staple for the Quechua Indians of Peru and Bolivia.

Looking like a cross between a sesame seed and millet grain, quinoa is considered a complete protein because it contains all eight essential amino acids. It also is higher in unsaturated fats and lower in carbohydrates than most grains.

The quinoa you'll find readily available in health food stores and supermarkets, has been laboriously scrubbed free of saponin, a sticky substance that coats the seed. However, it is recommended that you thoroughly rinse it again before cooking. Properly cooked quinoa should be light and fluffy with a lovely nutty quality and slight crunch. Take care not to add too much water or overcook the grain as it can quickly turn to mush.

Preparing these grains is easy and their unique flavors lend variety to any vegetarian dish. The following recipes can help you get started in making thoroughly modern meals from these ancient, revered grains.

Tuscan Farro and White Bean Soup

6 SERVINGS VEGAN

On a recent visit to Tuscany and the glorious walled city of Lucca, I sampled this wonderfully satisfying soup. Some recipes using this grain suggest overnight soaking, but I have never found it necessary. However, to save on preparation time, you could substitute canned beans for the dried. Serve with crusty Tuscan bread.