Cornucopia

Vegetarian Times, July, 1998 by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley

We're up to our ears in corn: Capture its sweet flavor with a light chowder.

It's one of those heavenly foods that can evoke the spirit of a whole season in just one mouthful. There's no better way to enjoy a balmy summer evening than to bite into a sweet, crisp ear of corn or savor the juicy kernels in a bowl of full-bodied chowder.

As you stand before the bushels of corn at your local market, you'll find that three sweet varieties (or genotypes) dominate, and they are distinguished by the amount of sugar they contain. n ascending order of sweetness they are: normal sugary, sugar-enhanced and supersweet. These hybrids were developed during the 1930s to appeal o America's sweet tooth. While all three varieties offer white, yellow and bicolored kernels, it is the type of corn rather than the color that determines their sweetness.

Normal sugary and sugar-enhanced varieties have a traditional corn taste and are best eaten within one day of picking (they lose a significant amount of sugar within 24 hours). The supersweets can contain twice as much sugar as old-fashioned corn and are bred so the sugars are slow to turn starchy, which means even ears several days old should still be tender and taste sweet.

The best way to buy corn is in the husk, which protects the kernels from the dry air and also tells you how fresh the corn is. Moist green husks are clearly fresher than dry old brown ones. The tassel (silky strings at tip) should be golden brown and fresh looking, not pale, which is an indication that it was picked too early. Rather than peeling back the husk to check for freshness-this can dry out the corn-feel around the husk for plump, resilient kernels. And most important, take fresh corn home immediately; don't let it sit in a hot car. Refrigerate it unhusked in a plastic bag, and cook it within 2 days for the best flavor.

Our menu this month features a low-fat corn chowder made without cream, butter or flour and accented with fresh herbs. Tomato bruschetta (toasted bread slices) makes a tasty accompaniment, especially if you use juicy garden-ripe tomatoes. Keep dessert simple and serve sliced fresh strawberries splashed with orange-flavored liqueur or orange juice.

Fresh Corn Chowder

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE 30

This hearty soup has a rich, smooth texture even though it contains no cream. The flavor depends on the quality of the corn, so be sure to use the freshest and sweetest ears you can find.

2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 leek (white part only), well rinsed
and chopped
3 green onions (white parts only),
chopped
2 cups fresh corn kernels
(4 medium ears)
1 medium russet potato, peeled
and chopped
4 cups vegetable broth
2 Tbs. minced fresh basil
1 Tbs. minced fresh mint
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste

In large pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, leek and green onions. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes.

Add corn, potato, broth, basil and mint. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until potato is tender and liquid has reduced to just cover ingredients, about 30 minutes.

Puree mixture using an immersion blender or food processor, until almost smooth but still a little chunky. Season with salt and pepper.

PER SERVING: 221 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT; (0 SAT FAT); 52G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 340 MG SOD.; 1G FIBER.

Tomato and Herb Bruschetta

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE 30

Bruschetta is a simple but superb Italian appetizer of thick slices of toasted bread spread with a garden-fresh topping of ripe red tomatoes, basil, garlic and olive oil. It's a wonderful accompaniment to the chowder in both flavor and color.

1 1/2 lbs. ripe plum tomatoes, seeded
and chopped
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil
2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
or 1/2 tsp. dried
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Six 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch-thick slices crusty
bread, grilled or toasted

In medium bowl, gently mix tomatoes, garlic, basil, oregano, oil, vinegar and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, cut grilled bread slices in half Set slices on serving plates and spoon tomato mixture over them.

PER SERVING: 99 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT; (1G SAT FAT); 14G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 134 MG SOD.; 1G FIBER.

RELATED ARTICLE: Corn off the Cob

To remove corn kernels from the cob, stand an ear on its end in a bowl and slice off the kernels with a sharp, thin-bladed knife. Then reverse your knife and using the dull side, press it down the length of the ear and push out the rest of the corn and its milk. These are called the scrapings.