Berried treasure

Vegetarian Times, July, 1998 by Nancy Ross Ryan

Get them at their peak! Now's the time to stop at your local farm stand or market for some juicy berries.

Berries come early in summer's fruit line-up. No sooner does the weather turn warm then they seem to pop out. But like the sweetest of dreams, they vanish far too soon. So gather your berries while you may, to savor them plain or in a wide array of color, and flavor,packed dishes.

Not only are berries beautiful and delicious, hey have nutritional powers that eclipse those of many other fruits. One cup of strawberries has more vitamin C than a whole orange, and raspberries and blackberries contain as much fiber, cup for cup, as oatmeal. Best of all, you can sit yourself own and eat your fill with abandon since calories are almost nonexistent in berries. Consider these impressive stats: 1 cup of blackberries has only 74 calories; blueberries, 82 calories; raspberries, 61 calories; and strawberries have 45 calories.

The easiest way to enjoy berries is on their own, pop a handful in your mouth and let the juices coat your tongue and chin. Let's face it, you can hardly improve on their natural perfection, but over time, the summer berry has inspired many recipes that heighten their flavor and prolong our eating pleasure.

Berries, of course, star in many luscious desserts. Some are elegant, like our fresh Mixed Berry Tart, which happily layers strawberries, raspberries and blueberries over a flaky, tender crust topped with vanilla pastry cream. Others are more homey, like our Berry-Peach Crisp and Star-Spangled Raspberry Shortcakes. We've also reinvigorated some heirloom recipes to suit today's palate--Blackberry Fool and Summer Pudding, both traditional English desserts. Berries can play a starring role in main-dishes as well. Our Strawberry Tabouli makes a satisfying summer lunch or dinner, and our Very Berry Shake perks up breakfast in an instant.

With the berry season at its peak from May through August, now's the time to shop the farmers' market and farm stands, sample the seasonal specials offered by your local supermarket, or even pick your own strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Eat the sweetest berries out of hand, top the tart ones with a sprinkling of sugar and use any and all to add color, freshness and a touch of sweetness to dishes ranging from pancakes and parfaits to dips and salads.

Star-Spangled Raspberry Shortcakes

8 SERVINGS LACTO

If the fresh raspberries and jeweltoned strawberry sauce that compose this festive dessert aren't enough of a reason to make you dig into it, the biscuits are so low in fat, you can enjoy them without any quilt whatsoever.

Biscuits

1 1/2cups unbleached flour
1/4cup sugar
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. grated lemon rind
1/3cup buttermilk
1/4cup vegetable oil

4 cups very ripe strawberries, hulled
1/4 cup sugar or to taste
8 cups ripe fresh raspberries, 8 reserved
1 cup whipped cream (optional)

BISCUIT: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Coat baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray In large bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon rind. In small bowl, mix buttermilk and oil. Add to flour mixture, stirring with fork just until mixture comes together. (Mixture will be lumpy; do not overmix.)

Sprinkle work surface with flour. Turn out biscuit dough and with lightly floured hands pat dough into a 7-inch circle, about 1/2 inch thick. Use a 2 1/4-inch star or biscuit cutter, cut out biscuits, gathering up scraps. Transfer to prepared baking sheet. Bake until golden brown on top and bottom, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, in food processor, puree strawberries with sugar. Transfer to saucepan and bring to boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce heat to low and cook 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl to cool.

To assemble, split biscuits in half with fork or with sharp, serrated knife. Place bottom half of biscuit on dessert plate. Cover lightly with some strawberry sauce. Add 1/4 cup raspberries. Top with 2 tablespoons whipped cream if desired. Cover with biscuit top. Surround shortcake with a ring of strawberry sauce. Top biscuit with 1 teaspoon whipped cream if desired, and a single raspberry. Repeat with remaining shortcakes.

PER SERVING: 285 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 51G CARB.; 1MG CHOL.; 168MG SOD.; 11G FIBER.

Strawberry Tabouli

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Adding strawberries to a traditional tabouli salad makes a refreshing and colorful warm-weather entree.

1 1/2 cups bulgur wheat
1 to 2 tsp. salt
2 cups boiling water
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
3/4 cup finely chopped mint
4 cups chopped strawberries
1 cup toasted pecan pieces

In large bowl, combine bulgur and salt. Add boiling water, cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Remove cover and fluff with fork. Stir in oil and lemon juice.

Add parsley, mint and strawberries. Cover and refrigerate.

When ready to serve, add toasted pecans and toss to mix, or serve with pecans sprinkled on top.

PER SERVING: 247 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 16G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 31G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 194MG SOD.; 8G FIBER.