Eating on the fly

Vegetarian Times, July, 1998 by Cristin Marandino

The mere thought of being 30,000 feet in the air can give even veteran travelers pause. Add to that a mysterious blob of something meant to sustain us on our journey, and the flight can become downright terrifying. Since air travel is often a necessary hazard, a truly dedicated team of editors went in search of an airline, any airline, whose veg food didn't leave passengers wondering what their seat cushions might taste like with a bit of salt.

We must confess, however, to, having a secret agenda regarding a little something known in our office as the Great Cookie Conspiracy. Ever notice that your "dessert" usually consists of some lame attempt at fruit (mushy pears, mealy apples, ect.), while everybody else is feasting on a sweet and chocolatey confection? Must we be deprived of all things chocolate simply because we're vegetarians? We think not. With this and other hard-hitting questions, we descended upon the catering services at. New York's LaGuardia Airport, where we chewed, tasted, pondered and questioned. Here's what we learned.

Vegetarian meals are popular. In fact, of the six major airlines we surveyed, they account for between 30 and 50 percent of all special meal requests. And what really perked up our ears was that 63 percent of frequent flyers (those taking at least three trips a year) polled by the Response Analysis Corporation of Princeton, N.J., said they would be willing to sacrifice taste for health. "Don't the other 37 percent know they sacrifice taste regardless," we joked. But the joke was on us. Who'd have thought the food would actually be good?

With Chez Panisse founder and 1992 James Beard Chef of the Year Alice Waters serving as an American Airlines' consultant and Sheila Lukins, author of The U.S.A. Cookbook (Workman, 1997), lending her culinary creativity to United Airlines, some airlines are going to great lengths to not just feed, but please the masses. And it's harder than you might think. Imagine: 12B hates beans, 23D doesn't like peppers, 42C won't touch a mushroom. Get the picture? "We're trying to fill the needs of a broad range of people. It's not an easy task," says Brian O'Loughlin, director of culinary planning for American Airlines.

But considering that 56 percent of frequent flyers say they would try to fly airlines that serve good food (all things being relative), superior meals could provide the edge airline executives are seeking. And in the never-ending battle for consumers' dollars, some airlines will even specialize your special meal. "There was a passenger who wanted a no-meat, no-fruit, no-vegetable, low-sodium meal," recalls Northwest representative Jacques Castan. "I didn't know what to give him." The passenger dined on dry couscous and was reportedly quite happy.

Now, about that cookie. Our investigation uncovered a twofold problem. First, the same meal is often served to vegetarians and vegans alike, and fruit is an easy vegan dessert. Second, menu planners often select on the assumption that vegetarians are looking for healthier fare. Note: Extra desserts are often stashed aboard and the squeaky passenger gets the cookie.

There will come a time, however, when getting a cookie is the least of your worries. It'll be that flight when you've made it aboard, your luggage has made it aboard--but your special meal is still at the airport. Your best course of action is to ask the flight attendants what they can do for you. They've been known to take a little of this from an extra coach meal and a little of that from a first-class meal to produce a smorgasbord of veggie delights. But whatever you do, don't blame them. As Vegetarian Times food editor, Kathy Kingsley, put it: "From planning to preparation to transportation to service, I'm amazed anybody ever gets fed at all." But if your meal does make it aboard, the good news is you'll be served before your neighbor getting the brown mystery meat.

Airlines              American
Main Course           Thai pasta slaw (cold salad of
                      linguine and vegetables in
                      mint and pineapple sauce)

Protein               6 grams (g)

Sodium                231 milligrams (mg.)

Fat                   6 g. without peanuts

Calories              173

Presentation          The onions, cucumbers,
                      pineapple and mint made it
                      very attractive.(5)

Sides                 Not much. A lone roll came
                      with the meal.(2)

Dessert               Fruit salad.(4)(At least it
                      wasn't half a canned pear.)

Taste                 A bit bland.(2)

Meal Rotation         One option is served on all
                      domestic flights, but the
                      menu changes monthly. So
                      unless you stay at you destination
                      for more than a month,
                      expect the same meal coming
                      and going.

Comments              Crushed peanuts are served
                      on the side. Sprinkling them
                      on top will give you a boost in
                      the protein department, but it
                      will also boost the fat content.

Average rating        3.8

Airlines              Continental

Main Course           Vegetarian burrito

Protein               12 g

Sodium                180 mg.

Fat                   14 g.

Calories              390

Presentation          Looks like something you'd actually want to
                      eat.(4)

Sides                 Very complete meal. Tossed salad, cashew
                      rice, mixed vegetables, pita bread and fruit
                      salad are also served.(5)

Dessert               Angle food cake(5) (Hey, it's not fruit!)

Taste                 Rice was a bit dry and the vegetables a bit
                      mushy but the burrito was great.(4)

Meal Rotation         Two different meals are served each day and
                      switched every two weeks.

Comments              One editor wanted to know if she could buy a
                      few burritos for her freezer.
Average rating        4.5

Airlines              Northeast

Main Course           White vegetable lasagna

Protein               14 g.

Sodium                860 mg.

Fat                   16 g

Calories              340

Presentation          Very white.(2)

Sides                 A bit sparse, with only a packet of
                      Wassa bread (with lasagna?!)
                      on the side.(2)

Dessert               The best red grapes we've had in a
                      long time, but alas, they still
                      weren't cookies.(4)

Taste                 Lots of flavor, but with all that
                      cheese, our arteries started
                      clogging just smelling it.(5)

Meal Rotation         Eight different meals are served
                      each day and witched every
                      two weeks.

Comments              The only airline that took
                      our cookie conspiracy theory--the
                      rep promised to try and add a chocolate
                      chip cookie. (We told him to keep the
                      grapes, though.)

Average rating        3.4