Turkish delights

Vegetarian Times, August, 1998 by Sarah L. Bush

Turkey is in a unique position, gastronomically speaking. Its capital, Istanbul, borders Greece and firmly connects it to the cuisines of southern Europe, while a long Mediterranean coastline links it to the Arab world and the foods of the Middle East. Well known for their nomadic lifestyle, the Turks have exerted and received influence all across Eurasia. And because of this, they have created a style of cooking that is as rich in history as it is in intensity and flavor.

Life revolves around food in Turkey, and all it takes is a walk along a crowded city street to have one's senses piqued by the aromas of freshly cooked food. Scores of street vendors take pleasure in tempting you with ready-to-eat snacks, such as toasted and spiced sunflower seeds, salted and roasted chickpeas or just freshly baked bread dipped in glistening olive oil. Bazaars and street markets are bustling with people carefully selecting from piles of perfectly shaped vegetables, olives of various hues, and fresh herbs and cheeses. It's impossible to ignore the spice seller who proudly shows off artistically arranged bags of yellow, gold, brown and red powders and their fragrances.

In their homes, Turks are steadfastly conservative in their culinary habits, and family cohesiveness is expressed at the dinner table. Evolving from peasant food that's easy to prepare, Turkish cooks have a knack for bringing out the best in simple ingredients. Their cooking methods are basic and rely on only a few utensils--in fact, many dishes require just one pot. You'll also find the same foods served to a family at home as presented to guests at a formal reception. The only difference lies in the presentation and in the exotic embellishments.

It's never a disaster if an unexpected guest should come to a Turkish household at dinnertime. One of the Turks' greatest pleasures is to welcome a caller with cups of strong dark coffee, cooling yogurt drinks or small syrup-laden pastries and dried fruits. Sharing food with friends and family is a ritual, and if you ever have the chance to be on the receiving end of Turkish hospitality, you'll find yourself treated very generously.

A Turkish meal is not strictly divided into courses. A mezze, or "taste," is served first, composed of a selection of about 20 different small dishes. These are either served as "nibbles" with drinks beforehand, as a light lunch or as a complete meal. All the recipes in our menu are suitable as appetizers, but when served together, they make an exceptional buffet. If you want to serve this menu at a large party, you can easily expand it by adding more appetizer dishes, such as hummus, a chickpea dip flavored with garlic and tahini; thin slices of goat's cheese; olives; or chopped cucumber mixed with plain yogurt.

Grape Leaves Stuffed with Bulgur, Apricots and Mint

(Yalancie Dolmas)

MAKES 14 DAIRY-FREE

The Turkish name for these tasty bite-size parcels means "false" because they are not served hot and do not contain meat like the traditional stuffed grape leaves. Grape leaves are available packed in jars and require soaking to remove the excess brine that preserves them.

1/2 cup coarse bulgur, rinsed and drained
1/4 cup red lentils, sorted and rinsed
3 Tbs. olive oil
1 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup (packed) dried apricots, finely chopped
2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
14 grape leaves, rinsed and dried
(see glossary, p. 87)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Mint leaves and lemon slices for garnish (optional)

In heavy medium saucepan, bring 1 cup water to a boil. Stir in bulgur. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, in small saucepan, combine lentils with enough water to cover by 1 inch. Gently boil, uncovered, until lentils are tender but still hold their shape, about 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside.

In large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add raisins, apricots, mint, cinnamon and allspice. Stir in bulgur and lentils and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To fill grape leaves: Place one leaf fiat on work surface with veins facing upward. Place 2 teaspoons filling in middle of leaf close to stalk end. Fold bottom of leaf over and each side in to enclose filling. Roll up firmly toward point. Place roll in the palm of hand and give a slight squeeze to form a firm shape. Repeat procedure with remaining leaves and filling.

Arrange stuffed leaves, seam sides down, in medium skillet. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, lemon juice and enough water to cover leaves. Cover pan and cook over low heat for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until tender. Add extra water to skillet as necessary. Allow leaves to cool, covered, in skillet. Transfer to a serving dish and chill in refrigerator until ready to serve. Serve garnished with lemon and mint if desired.

PER DOLMA: 74 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 11G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 6MG SOD.; 2G FIBER.