Naturally flea-free: preventing fleas is a lot easier than removing them

Vegetarian Times, Sept, 1998 by Norine Dworkin

More than just an itchy nuisance, fleas are a health hazard to animals and humans. Because they carry diseases, like anemia and dermatitis, and harmful parasites, like tapeworms, it's not only kind but important to keep pets fleafree. Fortunately, it's also relatively simple.

Your best weapon in the flea wars is a flea comb with tightly spaced teeth. Comb your pet every day during flea season (June through October or year-round in hotter climes). Look for "flea dirt," gritty black specks (actually flea feces)--a sure sign fleas have moved in. With longhaired pets, Christina Chambreau, D.V.M., a holistic and homeopathic veterinarian in Baltimore, Md., suggests standing them on a white sheet, then scratching them vigorously where the tail meets the back (a favorite flea hangout) to find either fleas or flea dirt. When you do find fleas, drop them in a bucket of soapy water to kill them.

Of course, preventing fleas is easier than removing them. One of the best defenses against chronic infestations is maintaining your pet's health. "Healthy animals don't get fleas," explains Chambreau. "Fleas are attracted to heat. When animals are healthy, they run a slightly lower body temperature."

Good pet health starts with a good diet. John Heinerman, author of Natural Pet Cures: The Definitive Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats (Prentice Hall, 1998), recommends feeding your pet food that's all-natural and free of such preservatives as ethoxyquin, BHA or BHT, artificial flavors and appetite stimulants. Supplementing food can change your pet's body chemistry, making it inhospitable to hungry fleas. Brewer's yeast is one time-proven method. So are raw garlic, zinc and barley grass concentrate. Dosages vary depending on weight; check with your veterinarian.

As an added protectant, try natural repellents instead of synthetic dips and sprays, which contain harmful insecticides. "The chemicals in flea collars, dips and sprays are very bad for our pets," says Chambreau. "Fleas adapt [to these treatments] and mutate so these products are also inefficient. I don't recommend any of them." However, essential oils, like citronella, tea tree, wintergreen and eucalyptus, are highly effective. Heinerman suggests adding several drops to your favorite pet shampoo, then bathing your dog once a week (cats every four to six weeks). Don't apply essential oils directly to your pet's coat; they may irritate the skin or make the animal sick if licked off. Citrus is another good repellent. Grind up the peels from a couple of oranges or lemons, then add water to make the mixture runny enough to be sprayed on. Spritz your animal each time it goes outside. Adding 15 drops of fennel, garlic, lavender, rosemary, sage or sandal wood liquid extract (not essential oil) will boost the solution's effectiveness, Heinerman says.

Since fleas reproduce faster than bunnies, removing them from your pet is only half the battle--you've got to purge them from your home. Vacuum all surfaces where fleas (and their eggs) can hide, including carpets, bare floors, chairs and beds. Toss a flea collar in the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that could escape and reinfest your home. Throw the bag out immediately. And be sure to wash all blankets and sheets in hot water. Spreading pyrethrum powder, derived from chrysanthemums, around the house will also kill fleas without risk to pets or children.

Fleas are resilient, but with a little vigilance, your pet (and your home) can become a no-flea zone.