The great white way

Vegetarian Times, Nov, 1998 by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley

A soul-warming dish that spotlights autumn's bounty of cauliflower.

Summer may seem like nature s season of plenty, but in fact, many vegetables only begin to mature as the days grow shorter and cooler, transforming August's lush greenery into the abundance of fall. By late October, the farmers' markets are brimming with a wonderful array of produce--piles of red, yellow and purple peppers, hard-shelled winter squash, pale green fennel, peppery arugula, all kinds of root vegetables and a wide variety of cabbages.

Cauliflower, a cabbage family member, grows to perfection in the cool weather. In addition to the large, white variety easily found in the supermarket, other types exist that produce smaller heads of purple or pale chartreuse. When buying cauliflower, look for a mass of tightly packed florets nestled in a halo of crisp leafy greens. It should feel heavy for its size and have a pleasant smell. Avoid cauliflower with wilted greens or a surface marred by brown speckles. As hardy as it looks, cauliflower is actually quite delicate and can develop a strong cabbagy taste and smell if stored too long. However, it can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed, for two days. Cauliflower bruises easily and needs oxygen, so wrap it gently and loosely with plastic wrap. Do not put it in a sealed plastic bag because the humidity that accumulates inside will intensify its cabbagy character.

Cauliflower has a slightly sweet, mild flavor that's beautifully accented when set against other more assertive flavors. One of my favorite combinations is this saute, which blends cauliflower, spinach and potatoes with spices like cardamom, cumin and turmeric. It's a snap to make and only needs some naan (an Indian flatbread) or other types of flatbread to round it out for a quick and easy weekday meal. Even if you think you don't like cauliflower, give this dish a try. Its spicy but engaging flavor will surprise you and just might win you over.

Spicy Cauliflower Saute

4 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE 30

1 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 small head cauliflower, quartered and
  thinly sliced, including stem
10 to 12 small red potatoes, cubed and
  steamed
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 bunch spinach; stemmed (2 to 3 cups)
1 small carrot, julienned
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring often, until it begins to brown in a few places. Add potatoes, garlic and spices. Reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add spinach and carrot. Cover and cook until spinach is wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serve right away.

Per serving: 201 cal.; 6g prot.; 7g total fat (26 SAT. fat); 32g carb.; 8mg chol.; 72mg sod.; 6g fiber.