Something to root for

Vegetarian Times, Nov, 1998 by Nancy Ross Ryan

* Parsley root Its flavor is both carrot-and celerylike. Purchase firm roots that range in size from small to medium. Leave greens on until ready to cook. Greens may be used like parsley. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Available late fall and winter.

* Parsnips Purchase firm roots (they look like white carrots) that range in size from small to medium (larger ones may be woody) and have smooth, unblemished skins. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for up to two weeks. Available fall and winter.

* Radishes Varieties include red, white, black and daikon. The radish family not only contains the familiar round red radish but the white icicle radish (hard to find outside of farmers' markets), the black radish (almost as pungent as horseradish) and the giant, mild white daikon radish, which is now grown in California and widely available. Farmers' markets also yield less common round radishes in shades of white, purple and lavender. Purchase radishes that are firm and not spongy. The root end should be white and crisp, not brown and withered. Remove greens, store radishes unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Available year-round.

* Rutabagas Often called the Swede or Swedish turnip, this vegetable, believed to be a cross between cabbage and turnip, was relatively unknown before the 17th century. In cooking, rutabagas are interchangeable with turnips. Buy heavy-for-their-size rutabagas with unblemished skins. Most come to market with a wax coating that must be removed before cooking. Unlike turnip greens, rutabaga greens are not edible. Remove any greens and store in the vegetable bin. Available year-round, with the peak season spanning July through April.

* Salsify Varieties include the familiar white-skinned salsify (also called oyster plant because of its delicate flavor) and the black-skinned more difficult-to-find scorzonera. They are interchangeable in cooking. Purchase firm, unblemished roots that are medium in size; large ones tend to be woody and small roots don't yield much flesh after peeling. Remove any tops and refrigerate unwashed in plastic bags for up to one week. Available June through February.

* Turnips This root vegetable sometimes comes to market with a waxy coating that must be removed before cooking. If possible, purchase unwaxed turnips. Choose those that are small to medium, heavy and smooth Skinned. Young, crisp turnip greens make a good cooked vegetable. To store, remove greens; refrigerate unwashed in plastic bags for up to two weeks. Available year-round, but they are at their peak from October through February.

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Here are some quick and delicious ways to serve root vegetables.

* Daikon slaw Peel daikon and grate. Toss with cole slaw-style dressing or combine with shredded carrots and red radishes.

* Root vegetable crudites Trim, wash and serve the following root vegetables whole, cut or sliced: red radishes, daikon, carrots, rutabagas, white chioggia beets, turnips. Make vegetable chips from carrot, radish and turnip coins. Serve with hummus, yogurt;herb dip or garlicy soy mayonnaise.