The 7 best rustic retreats: cabins, cottages and small lodges where you can enjoy great hiking, biking and swimming minus the prices—and crowds - Venture Out

Shape, June, 2003

We've got nothinq against bellboys, valet parking and turndown service. But if you're looking for a laid-back fitness getaway without the expensive and often unnecessary bells and whistles, the following seven rustic getaways fit the bill.

From the high peaks of central California to the waterfall-filled gorges of southern Ohio, each of these retreats is so far off the beaten path that you can start your hike from your back door. All prices are per night, double occupancy, unless otherwise noted.

1. BEST WILDERNESS RETREAT

Rock Creek Lakes Resort, Rock Creek Canyon, Calif.

* The 'hood Rock Creek Lakes Resort is located near the end of a little-known nine-mile canyon road off California's long and lonely Highway 395 in the eastern Sierra Nevada.

* Room with a view The resort - a cluster of 11 cabins built from 1955-2001 - sits beneath towering pines near a looking-glass lake stocked with trout. Cabins have modern kitchens and bathrooms.

* Calorie burners The trails begin at 9,685-foot-high Rock Creek Lake, a turquoise jewel; just up the canyon are dozens more lakes. En route are wildflower meadows, rushing streams and staggering views of craggy peaks, cliffs and glaciers. From the summits of the peaks, you can even glimpse Mount Whitney on a clear day. Mountain bikers can test their mettle on Sand Canyon and Lower Rock Creek trails.

* Healthy eats The diner at Rock Creek Lakes Resort serves great chili and soups made from scratch.

* Zone-out ops Fisherwomen come for the trout and catch enough for dinner if they're lucky (or enjoy a day by a glorious lake or creek if they're not), while the weary and stressed-out are drawn to the peace and quiet, fresh air and friendly folk - all reminiscent of some bygone decade.

* Don't miss! The same tiny diner at the Rock Creek Lakes Resort has been a mecca for pie lovers for nearly 50 years. The pie-eyed" order slices of rhubarb, strawberry, peach, apple, banana cream, fresh nectarine, Cheddar pear or boysenberry in summer; cranberry walnut, maple pecan and pumpkin are fall favorites. Each pie is made fresh that morning; in fact, the resort's 'pie ladies" begin their day at 4 a.m. Some cyclists ride all the way from the ski and summer resort town of Mammoth Lakes - about 25 miles plus 3,000 feet of elevation - just for a slice. By noon, the pies are usually sold out. Post-pie, many satisfied customers retire to their cabin decks for an afternoon nap.

* Details One-bedroom cabins, $110; two-bedroom cabins, from $142 (quadruple occupancy; 760-935-4311, rock creeklake.com) - Nancy Gottesman

2. BEST BACKWOODS RETREAT

Ash Cave Cabins, South Bloomingville, Ohio

* The 'hood Set on a 63-acre private forest, the cabins are adjacent to Ohio's 2,331-acre Hocking Hills State Park. Filled with towering cliffs, breathtaking waterfalls, steep-walled gorges, shallow caves and deep hemlock forests, it's all - can you believe it? - just an hour southeast of Columbus.

* Room with a view Check into a "Love Bug" cedar cabin nestled in an acre of woods, with a fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and balcony overlooking miles of hemlocks. With a stack of firewood by your front door, you'll have no trouble keeping the home fires burning.

* Calorie burners Lace up your hiking boots for the historic Buckeye Trail, part of the 24 miles of trails that run through the park. Take a hike through the scenic valleys of Cedar Falls and continue by the massive rock formations and rushing waterfalls of Old Man's Cave. Keep an eye peeled for deer, fox or coyote (or even a black bear!), or explore any of the other nearby natural areas. Enjoy horseback riding and guided rappelling at Hocking State Forest, more hiking at Conkle's Hollow State Nature Preserve and canoeing at Lake Hope State Park. All-day nature photography workshops also are available, so you can capture the sights and get a workout.

* Healthy eats Grill (outside) or cook (inside) the cabin, or head to Grouse Nest Restaurant for hearty gourmet dishes like Grilled Shiitake Polenta and, for dessert, Dreaming of Summer, a peach tart with raspberry coulis and champagne sorbet.

* Zone-out ops Soak in the Jacuzzi sheltered by the cabin's glass atrium, and settle back for a view of the forest and stars.

* Don't miss! The half-mile hike to Ash Cave. The state's largest recessed cave (a shallow cave with a wide mouth), it even has its own 90-foot tumbling waterfall!

* Details From $155 (800-222-4655, ashcave.com)

Gabrielle Gayagoy

3. BEST WILDLIFE RETREAT

Sylvan Lake Resort, Custer State Park, S.D.

* The 'hood The jaw-dropping drive through the Black Hills to reach placid Sylvan Lake follows Needles Highway and threads up and around massive granite spires.

* Room with a view Tucked at the end of the road is Sylvan Lake Resort, 40 miles southwest of Rapid City, S.D. This classic mountain inn neighboring the lake's boulder-fringed shores offers ultracozy rooms and rustic cabins.

* Calorie burners Sylvan Lake Lodge is the perfect "base camp" for hiking Harney Peak, the state's highest at 7,242 feet. Roam the eerie and exhilarating trail through the mist-shrouded Cathedral Spires at daybreak en route to Harney Peak and panoramic views.