Self-tanning made simple: expert tips on how to avoid common mistakes—and get a natural-looking faux glow

Shape, June, 2004 by Martha Schindler Connors

If you've ever used a self-tanner, chances are, you've experienced a horror story involving streaking or orange palms. While easy to use once you get the hang of them, these summer must-haves are also simple to misapply if you haven't mastered the right technique. The reason? All self-tanners contain a chemical called dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, which temporarily stains (within about an hour) the uppermost layer of your skin, called the stratum corneum. So if you don't apply the product right to begin with, it's hard to stop this process once it starts--why we asked experts for tips on how to get a healthy glow in no time.

Problem No. 1 Streaks Uneven coverage creates alternating stripes of too-dark and too-pale skin.

The cause This is probably the most common self-tanning snafu, says Regina Viotto, spa director of the Paul Labrecque Salon and Spa in New York City. "You're supposed to moisturize and exfoliate before using a self-tanner, but most people don't do that until right before they apply the product," she says. The result: an uneven surface that in turn causes an uneven tan

How to avoid it Prepare your skin by exfoliating every morning in the shower a few days before you apply self-tanner (try Banana Boat's VitaSkin Pre-Sunless Skin Smoother Exfoliating Scrub, $5; at drugstores). Use a moisturizer liberally for the days before you self-tan, but not immediately before-hand (it will interfere with the self-tanner's absorption). Shaving also exfoliates, so it's OK to do that a day ahead of time too. And wait at least a full day before de-fuzzing again; doing so sooner will shorten the life of your tan. (The same goes for waxing, says Viotto: Give yourself at least a day or two before--and after--your self-tanning application.)

When applying the tanner, work slowly and rub the product in completely. If you're prone to streaks, Viotto recommends using a lotion (instead of quick-drying foam), which will give you more time to smooth out uneven areas. Tanners with built-in tints also work to minimize the risk of streaks; try Clinique's Face Quick Bronze Tinted Self-Tanner or Body Quick Bronze Self-Tanner ($15.50 each; clinique.com), or L'Oreal Sublime Bronze Tinted Self-Tanning Lotion ($9; at drugstores).

Expert correction tips If you've got stripes but are still on the pale side, touch up with Estee Lauder Go Tan Sunless Towelettes ($27.50 for 10 towelettes; esteelauder.com), handy, prepackaged wipes that contain self-tanner. Or try evening out the area with a tinted moisturizer or bronzer, like Calgon Ahh ... Spa! Instant Bronzer, a multivitamin lotion ($7; at drugstores). If your streaks are too dark to cover, Viotto recommends lightening them by wiping the entire area with a cotton ball soaked in hydrogen peroxide or lemon juice, which should do the trick.

Problem No. 2 Blotchy spots Superdark ankles, elbows and knuckles announce to the world that you've faked your just-back-from-vacation look.

The cause Like other lotions, self-tanners are absorbed more by drier skin. Once there, the product soaks in and reacts with the top layer of skin cells, which are thicker in areas not exfoliated well.

How to avoid it In the days before you tan, be sure to exfoliate and use a rich moisturizer regularly. When applying the tanner, you'll get the most natural look if you dilute the self-tanner with an equal amount of moisturizer before applying it to your feet, ankles, elbows and knees, as well as to the inside of your arms and under your chin.

Expert correction tips If you still wind up with dark blotches, hop into the shower after the tanner has finished developing and scrub the dark blotches gently with a loofah. Then slather on a moisturizer and repeat the proccess in 24 hours, Viotto says. You can also try St. Tropez Tanning Essentials Self-Tan Remover ($33; sttropeztan.com), which reduces--but won't erase--the blotches.

Problem No. 3 The wrong shade Your "tan" is too orange, yellow or brown to be believable.

The cause As with hair color, self-tanner results depend as much on your natural coloring as they do on the product. What that means: No two people will get the same "tan" from any one product.

How to avoid it Experiment to find the perfect shade (and the right amount of product needed) for you. Unless your natural skin tone is very dark, start off with a product that has a lower concentration of DHA (meaning one that's labeled "fair" or "medium," not "dark" or "deep"), and give yourself two or three applications, spread out over a few days. Or try the newest innovation: Neutrogena Build-a-Tan ($10; at drug-stores), a self-tanner that allows you to gradually build up your color--no matter what your skin tone--based on the number of applications.

Expert correction tips If you're already looking a little off-color, gently scrub the product off in the shower, or go for a swim in a pool (the chlorine will accelerate the fading process), suggests Sandy Tsao, M.D., clinical director of the Dermatology and Laser Center at Massachusetts General Hospital in Boston.