Retreats that help take the pounds off: check into one of these live spas and you'll lose weight learn to eat and cook healthier and reduce stress

Shape, July, 2002 by Susanne R. Stoeckeler

1 I am by no means a spa aficionado. But I've heard enough to know that there is no better way to kick-start a weight-loss routine than a trip to a spa. So when I finally decided to get serious about dropping a few pounds before bikini season passed me by (yet again), I chose Cal-a-Vie.

Tucked away in a sleepy San Diego suburb called Vista, the spa lies smack in the middle of 200 verdant acres of hills, valleys and canyons, high among olive trees, towering oaks and fragrant flowering gardens. Only the haunting howl of coyotes and an audibly blissful family of frogs pierce the silence.

With a maximum of 24 guests at any given time, Cal-a-Vie has earned its distinction as the smallest luxury spa in the United States. The rustic country architecture and furnishings feel very south-of-France.

Up with the birds for a heart-rate-monitor-chirping hike

Whether you have fallen off the weight-loss wagon, taken a detour or simply need a new direction, Cal-a-Vie will put you squarely back on track. An extensive questionnaire helps the spa staff gauge individual health and fitness levels, and allows them to custom tailor an exercise, weight-loss or healthy-living program for you.

The food is nutrient-dense, mostly organic (often with spa-grown herbs and vegetables), lowfat and exploding with wonderful flavors.

Early morning hikes in the spa's backyard canyon are de rigueur. My heart-rate monitor chirped away as I headed for the crest, and I was rewarded by a stunning (if distant) view of the Pacific Ocean and neighboring farmland. Springtime trails are messy, so the housekeeping staff graciously cleans your mud-caked hiking boots each afternoon.

Four hours of workouts were available every day -- from cardio kick-boxing to water volleyball to body contouring to yoga. Being in good shape, I chose to do all four classes most days. The upside to all this activity? Weight loss, baby, weight loss. While there, I dropped nearly an inch of flab!

Getting my just dessert -- and more

When I wasn't working up a sweat or exercising my muscles, I pampered them with spa treatments. I didn't feel the least bit guilty soaking in a bubbling hydrotherapy bath overlooking a gorgeous mountain vista, or receiving an aromatherapy facial in a heated, overstuffed recliner -- it was all included in the price. Plus, I discovered I was eating less but not feeling deprived -- in fact, I actually made peace with smaller portions, thanks to Cala-Vies dramatically artful gourmet meals.

Oatmeal or kasha with currants and fresh fruit made for tasty breakfast fare, but one morning I craved protein and was cheerfully brought a plate full of scrambled eggs upon request.

White terry-cloth robes dotted the lunchtime tables as women in sandals, faces flushed, relaxed over a mindful midday meal. Black bean soup with a confetti of chopped tomatoes, a corn tortilla, half a papaya, two strawberries and some blueberries really was enough.

Dinner was another matter. Though all the guests had the same size vine-ripened tomato with fresh basil and mozzarella appetizer, I was jealous of my neighbor, who was not on the low-calorie diet plan and got twice the portion of grilled halibut I did. I was particularly envious when her dessert arrived -- huge, juicy strawberries dipped in gooey chocolate sauce. Since I had checked the "no sugar" box on my questionnaire, I had to "settle" for a deliciously sweet strawberry pruee. No sacrifice there -- in fact, my neighbor was soon eyeing my dessert! I was even more delighted to learn I could get the recipe for that (and everything else I had enjoyed) by purchasing the spa's self-published cookbook: The Cal-a-Vie's Gourmet Spa Cookery: Recipes for Health and Wellness ($23 at the spa or online at cal-a-vie.com).

The evening health and fitness sessions were educational -- the nutrition seminar was so detailed it should qualify for college credit. But for me, the highlight was a hands-on cooking demonstration by head chef Steve Pernetti.

I wanted to extend my stay (one woman was there for a month), but my budget just said no. I was leaving with less than I arrived with, and that was a good thing: I lost weight in only four days and, more important, dropped half an inch off my waist and arms, and a quarter-inch off my hips. Can't wait to try on my bikini.

Details The spa offers many customized and personalized meal plans. Meals are served in elegant sit-down style; all food is low in fat, salt and sugar; organic produce and meats are served whenever possible. Fruit, raw or grilled veggies and a hot tomato-juice beverage are served as snacks. Coffee is available, as is specially seasoned, air-popped popcorn.

Four-night "La Petite Spa week" stay includes nine spa treatments plus all meals, accommodations and fitness classes; $3,495 single occupancy only. (Double occupancy is not available; all guests, including couples who come together, stay in their own separate cottages.)

For more information, call (760) 945-2055 or log on to cal-a-vie.com.