Beauty-school basics: get an A+ in makeup savvy—with this goof-proof advice from the pros

Shape, Oct, 2004 by Andrea Feiner Schnipper

If each of us had a makeup artist at our beck and call, applying cosmetics for any occasion would be simple. But unlike the celebs who have these professionals on speed dial, we're left to our own beauty devices. With that in mind, we tracked down cosmetic gurus from around the country (who dish out beauty advice to celebrities as well as normal folks like us) to teach us how to look our best all year-round.

Lesson #1: You can always use golden hues. After Labor Day, women either continue to apply bronzers with the same zeal as they did when summer started--or stop using them altogether. Truth is, bronzers can be used--albeit sparingly--year-round for a healthy, radiant glow, says celebrity makeup artist Sonia Kashuk, who developed a complete line of fuss-free makeup for Target stores and also authored Real Beauty (Clarkson Potter, 2003), a how-to makeup-application book and DVD. The key: Year-round, you want a glow, not a tanned look. To get it: First, apply a single wash of color to the eyes in a shimmering bronze (like Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick in Beige, $35; bobbibrowncosmetics.com); next, apply bronzer to the apples of the cheeks, and then add a bronze or golden-colored gloss to the lips. Editor's favorites: Sonia Kashuk Chubby Cheek Sheer in Sunkissed ($5; at Target Stores), Sue Devitt Studio Gold Coast Bronzing Powder ($30; sephora.com) and Clinique Glosswear for Lips Sheer Shimmers in Sunshine ($13.50; clinique.com)

Lesson #2: Foundation should look natural. Makeup base is one of the most commonly misused cosmetics, but it doesn't have to be. Applying foundation with your fingers, on top of freshly moisturized skin (which is key to smooth application, particularly once complexion-drying fall and winter set in) will allow for a flawless, satiny look, says New York City-based Nars makeup artist James Boehmer. Editor's favorites: Estee Lauder So Ingenious Multi-Dimension Makeup SPF 8 ($32.50; esteelauder.com) and CoverGirl TruBlend ($8.50; at drugstores)

Lesson #3: Know your powder--and apply it sparingly. The right powder can set your look and reduce shine after you've applied foundation. Loose powder works well on most complexion types, except for skin that's on the oilier side; if this is your skin type, opt instead for pressed powder and reapply as necessary. Choose a powder that's a shade lighter than your skin tone in order to prevent darkening throughout the day as it absorbs oil. Editor's favorites: Shiseido The Makeup Enriched Loose Powder ($30; 800-7-BEAUTY) and Prescriptives Traceless Skin Responsive Powder ($28; prescriptives.com)

Lesson #4: Don't overdo cheeks. Over-application of blush is a sure way to date your look; instead, cheeks should be subdued, says New York City-based makeup artist Robert Jones, author of Simple Beaute (Simple Beaute, 2004), a hands-on makeup guide. When choosing a color, look for one that will give you a natural flush, says Jones, who recommends hues of peach or apricot. To apply powder blushes, start at the hairline and brush the color forward toward the apples of the cheeks. Cream blushes should be dotted starting at the apples of the cheeks, then blended back toward the hairline. Editor's favorites: Chanel Powder Blush in peachy-apricot Reflex ($38.50; gloss.com) and Revlon Cream Blush in Just Peachy ($9.79; at drugstores)

Lesson #5: Be more daring with eye shadow. If there's one part of the face that can afford a little experimentation, it's the eyes. The key: Apply color sparingly to begin with, and then slowly add on for intensity. First, start with a base eye shadow in a natural color close to your skin tone; this will set the stage for more-dramatic, lasting shadow.

After applying base, use a sponge-tip applicator to smudge an intense application of color across the lash line, Jones says. Start at the outside corner and work your way gradually toward the inner corner. Editor's favorites: Nars Single Eyeshadow in Barbuda, an amethyst hue ($18; narscosmetics.com); Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Shattered, a greenish turquoise ($14; sephora.com); and Aveda Shadow Plus Vitamins in Fjord, a rich blue ($10; aveda.com)--and as a base, try Neutrogena's Skin Soothing Eye Tints ($9 each; at drugstores), available in two neutral shades. A bonus: These tints also can help reduce puffy eyes.

Lesson #6: Know your liners. Eyeliners--whether you opt for liquid or pencils--are tricky to apply correctly. What's important to remember: Apply eyeliner after eye shadow, and draw very close to the top lash line.

If you're unable to draw a straight line, Tom Pecheux--an international makeup artist and a Shiseido Color Creator who helps develop Shiseido products--recommends using Q-tips to smudge the line for a less severe look and to camouflage mistakes. Editor's favorites: M.A.C long-wearing Liquid Liner in Boot Black or Stiletto ($15 each; maccosmetics.com) and Max Factor Pen-Silks ($5; at drugstores), available in six shades. To make your eyes look even bigger, top off your liner with a black mascara like Clinique High Impact Mascara in Black ($13.50; clinique.com).