Reviving limp locks: got thin hair? Follow these volumizing tips from an international hair expert - Beauty Rx

Shape, Nov, 2002 by Beth Janes

Fine hair is a common complaint. That's why we tracked down Philip Kingsley, a New York City- and London-based trichologist (hair and scalp specialist), for tips on how to pump up your strands' volume.

THE BASIC FACTS

Similar to skin, hair is made of layers. The top layer, or cuticle, is composed of dead cells lying on top of each other like shingles on a roof. This protects the middle layer, or cortex, which makes up the bulk of the hair, holds its color and determines whether it's straight or curly. The innermost layer, the medulla, has no real function. But it's the size of the follicle (a small indentation on the scalp from which hair grows) that determines each strand's thickness.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Less-obvious tip-offs that you may have fine hair:

* You're blond. It's just a "genetic quirk" that blond hair is more likely to be finer than other tress hues.

* Your hair lies flat when it's humid. The air's moisture can weigh down locks.

* You have lots of split ends. Because of their small diameter, fine strands tend to be susceptible to damage.

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

While fine hair is genetic, Kingsley says, there are plenty of ways to increase its volume. Beauty Rx:

1. Eat a balanced diet. Hair is made of protein, and without enough protein, fine strands can seem even more lifeless. Hair also needs nutrients from fruits, vegetables and essential fatty acids found in cold-water fish like salmon to look its shiny, lustrous best.

2. Treat underlyinq health problems. Hair often gets finer and/or thinner with age, but it can also be a symptom of a systemic illness (like thyroid disease), extreme stress or pregnancy. If you notice unusually fine hair for more than a month, consult your doctor.

3. Use products labeled "volumizing" or "for fine hair." These contain proteins that cling to strands making them look thicker. Try Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume Shampoo ($4.20; at drugstores), Progaine Weightless Conditioner ($6; progaine.com), TRESemme Hydrology Boosting Moisture Mousse ($3.49; at drugstores) or Kingsley's own Maximizer styling serum ($23; www.philipkingsley.co.uk).

RELATED ARTICLE: WHAT WORKS Philip Kingsley is the expert many women around the world (including celebrities like Kate Winslet and Sigourney Weaver) seek out when they've had too many bad-hair days. As a trichologist, he examines the scalp and puts hair strands under a microscope before recommending scalp massages, deep conditioners - and even dietary changes. The one thing that Kingsley has observed in dealing with women from around the world (he has clinics in London, New York and Singapore): No matter who you are, bad-hair days can cause self-esteem to plummet. "Hair has very deep psychological connotations," explains Kingsley, who has written books on the topic. "Improving a woman's hair can change her mood completely; if your hair looks good, you feel good."

HAIR SHAFT/FOLLICLE

1. cuticle

2. cortex

3. medulla

4. follicle