Diminish dark circles: what causes those persistent under-eye shadows—and simple tips on how to minimize them

Shape, March, 2005 by Jody Buffalo

Most of us have experienced "raccoon eyes," dark under-eye circles that make us look exhausted. We asked Miami-based dermatologist Frederic Brandt, M.D., to explain why they occur and give us some tips for minimizing them.

THE BASIC FACTS

The skin under the eyes is the thinnest on the body. The many blood vessels in this area can show through the delicate skin, contributing to the appearance of dark under-eye circles, especially if the vessels become dilated. Fat pads surround the eyes, and the muscles that enclose the upper and lower eyelids hold the fat pads (and skin) in place. As we age, skin and muscle lose elasticity, which can result in sagging around the eyes.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Dark circles can be caused by several factors:

* Genetics Darkness under the eyes runs in families and is more prominent on fair skin.

* Lack of sleep Poor-quality sleep causes blood vessels to become more visible through the skin.

* Sun exposure can trigger "age spots" around the eyes and weaken the skin, which can contribute to dark circles.

* Increased fluid retention The blood vessels under the eyes can become engorged and dilated (dietary salt and smoking are common causes).

* Aging causes the fat pad below the eye to thin, producing a sunken appearance.

* Extreme weight loss also can cause this sunken look.

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

To reduce the appearance of dark circles, Beauty Rx:

1. Get at least eight hours of uninterrupted sleep every night. Sleep with your head slightly elevated (when you're lying flat, gravity causes fluid to collect in your lower eyelids, which may create shadows).

2. Moisturize the area with an eye cream containing nourishing antioxidants that help protect the skin, such as green-tea and grapeseed extracts, and vitamins C, E and K (Dr. Brandt's own Skincare Lineless Eye Cream, $60; sephora.com, contains vitamins and green-tea extract).

3. Cover up with a yellow-based concealer.

4. See a dermatologist. He or she can tell you if engorged blood vessels are the culprit; if so, lasers can shrink them for up to $300 per area.

RELATED ARTICLE: UNDER-EYE SKIN

1. eye

2. blood vessels

3. fat pads

4. muscle

RELATED ARTICLE: WHAT WORKS

"It's common to have under-eye circles: Nine out of 10 people have them to some degree," says Frederic Brandt, M.D., a dermatologist with offices in Miami and New York City. "If you want to visit your dermatologist's office, he can perform laser procedures to help shrink the vessels or inject filler materials to even hollowness out [depending on the cause]," Brandt says. He explains that injecting a filler like the patient's own fat or FDA-approved Restylane above the cheekbones to restore lost volume and support the tissues also can remedy the sunken look (prices range from $350-$700). For an at-home remedy, Brandt encourages the use of products with powerful antioxidants, such as green tea and vitamins A and C. His advice: "Moisturize the under-eye area with an appropriate cream formulated with nourishing ingredients, and use your sunscreen every day."