Fresh cuts for spring: you don't have to change your hair drastically to update your look. The best cuts have soft layers and wispy fringes that make your hair versatile and easy to style

Shape, April, 2003 by Beth Janes

Now's the perfect time to soften your haircut to match the open necklines, flowing floral fabrics and soft pastel makeup for spring, says Patrick Melville, creative director and co-owner of Warren-Tricomi Salons in New York City and Greenwich, Conn. Changing your style with the season will boost your confidence and self-esteem, but you don't need to make a drastic change. "it's not about how much you cut off, but where you cut from that's important," Melville adds.

In the following styles, Melville eliminated blunt lines to create round shapes and layers that give movement to the hair. Read on for his expert tips on getting a style that will leave you looking and feeling as fresh as the season.

sexy shoulder-length

Avoid hair that's all one length: "It's boring, looks heavy and doesn't frame the face well," says Patrick Melville of Warren-Tricomi Salons.

how to get it

Ask your stylist to add long layers in the back and shorter ones in front to frame the face. "But don't over-layer," Melville warns. "Hair can get too wispy and thin at the bottom, making it flyaway."

how to style it

If hair is thin, use volumizing shampoo and only condition the ends. Then apply a volumizing product to the root area only. Melville's trick for extra lift: Vigorously massage the product into your scalp with your fingertips in an upward direction. Let hair air-dry for a sexier, messier look, or blow-dry straight with a paddle brush. Finish with hairspray to create more volume and texture.

styling essentials

TRESemme Hydrology Amplifying Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner ($3.29 each; at drugstores), Pantene Volumizing Root Lifter Spray Gel ($4; at drugstores) or Physique Volume Boosting Gel ($7; at drugstores) and Biolage Complete Control Hairspray ($11; matrix.com)

color note

Melville recommends highlights (color should vary light blond to warm caramel, depending on your natural color) to enhance and refresh any look.

long looks

This just-from-the-beach texture gives you a carefree and sexy appearance.

how to get it

Melville cut the semi-dry hair freehand, trimming as it fell into its natural position to better frame the face and shape the layers, rather than taking off a uniform length. "The layers create a lighter look," he explains.

how to style it

"Add texture to longer looks," Melville suggests. Use a volumizing product on wet hair, distributing through locks upside down and concentrating on the roots. If hair tends to frizz, also scrunch in an anti-frizz serum or gel (or try a volumizing product that helps fight frizz, like Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray, $17; 877-7-BUMBLE). Then let it air-dry or blow-dry upside down using your fingertips and/or a diffuser. After hair is dry spritz texturizing spray evenly throughout layers, then scrunch to get separation and more body.

styling essentials

Wella Liquid Hair Energy Styler Volumizing Mousse ($12; wellausa.com), L'Oreal Studio Line Anti-Frizz Gel ($3.59; at drugstores) and Sebastian Shaper Massive Texture Jel Mist ($13; 800-829-7322)

color note

If hair is very fine and straight, Melville suggests single-process color (not highlights) a shade or two darker than your natural color to add texture.

short and sassy

"A lot of women are scared of short hair because they think they'll end up with blunt cuts and straight edges," Melville says "But this look in particular is great because there are no blunt lines."

how to get it

Talk to your stylist about creating choppy layers on top by cutting up into the ends with the scissors. But keep them on the longer side for versatility; you'll be able to wear your hair all brushed forward (pictured here), swept to one side or parted and tucked behind the ears.

how to style it

Mix equal parts shine serum or cream and leave-in conditioner (or use the styling and conditioning Kiehl's Creme with Silk Groom, $16.50; kiehls.com). Massage into your scalp, pulling evenly through to the ends. Blow-dry while ruffling with your fingers, or for looser texture, let hair air-dry. Then shape and style with a touch of pomade or wax, applied only to the ends. styling essentials

Paul Mitchell Gloss Drops ($15; 800-321-JPMS), Clairol Renewal 5X Creme Leave-in Conditioner ($5; at drugstores) or Suave Performance Series Vitamin-Infusing Leave-in Conditioner ($2; at drugstores) and Redken Water Wax ($14; redken.com) color note

Cut short hair before getting highlights; cutting afterward can result in uneven color results.

Dancing in the Rain

A classic style gets a warm-weather update. This page: Burberry sleeveless trench dress, $795. Longchamp umbrella, $160. Hermes enamel-and-stainless-steel Clic-Clac H bracelet, $390. Martha Steawart rain boots, $36. Opposite: Burberry plastic "jelly" thong, $85.

Beauty note

Revive dull winter skin and your mood with a moisturizing fragrance mist. Lucky Chick Mimosa, Jasmine and Violet Magical Mist Body Spray, $14, is a light, energizing floral scent that softens skin with vitamin B and aloe.

HAIR: MIOK McCRODEEN/JUDY CASEY,

MAKEUP: LEANNE HIRSCH/THE AGENCY,

FASHION EDITOR: KRISTINA FERRANJE COLEMAN,