Beauty virgins: six brave Shape staffers put themselves on the line to test the newest treatments for acne scars, cellulite, stretch marks & more

Shape, April, 2004 by Sally Wadyka

It seems that a new cosmetic procedure comes along almost every day, but going for that first treatment is always a little daunting, especially when it's a procedure so advanced that you don't know a soul who has done it. That's why we've taken the plunge for you. Our brave beauty guinea pigs tried it all, and aren't afraid to tell it like it is. Here are their in-depth reports on the fears, the pain and, most important, the results.

* face

"My acne scars have ravaged my self-confidence as much as they have my face."--Amy, 40+

The treatment Restylane injections to smooth out acne scars Restylane--a clear gel containing hyaluronic acid, which works to plump up skin--has recently been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to fill wrinkles and make skin smoother. But it's also being injected into acne scars by dermatologists and plastic surgeons nationwide to temporarily fill in the depressions the scars have made. (Results last approximately four to six months.) Our tester Amy visited Harvard-trained celebrity dermatologist Karyn Grossman, M.D., who's well-known for her work in cosmetic dermatology in both Los Angeles and New York City.

Pain factor "I felt a sharp sting when the needle went in, and the deeper injections caused a toothachelike pain. Individually, the injections were tolerable, but the cumulative effect left my face burning," says Amy. Pain rating: about 5 (on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the highest) for the larger scars, which required several injections each; closer to 3 for the smaller ones

Post-treatment Redness and a stinging sensation ("similar to a mild sunburn")--typical side effects of the treatment--lasted into the next day. And three of the areas injected developed slightly raised welts that were soothed by warm compresses. Three days post-treatment, the redness and stinging were gone; the swelling went down more gradually over the next week.

The cost Approximately $675 for treatment with one syringe. (Cost is based on the number of syringes needed; most patients need one or two syringes.) Our tester used one syringe.

The bottom line "The improvement in the scars that were injected was immediate, and the skin in those areas looked smooth," says Amy.

"My crow's-feet were becoming more pronounced; I wanted something that would make the skin around my eyes smoother."--LaVonne, 40+

The treatment Thermage (aka ThermaCool) for wrinkles This procedure, called the "lunch-break face-lift" by its proponents, is relatively new for the treatment of wrinkles. Unlike lasers, Thermage uses radio-frequency energy to penetrate through the epidermis into the dermis, heating the skin-firming collagen and, in the process, tightening it. The theory: The deep heating of the collagen kicks in a natural biological repair process that causes gradual collagen tightening and stimulates the growth of new collagen to create a more youthful appearance. As the collagen forms, the top layer of skin looks plumper, smoother and less wrinkled. While encouraging new collagen to grow over the course of several months, Thermage also causes immediate tightening from slight swelling in surface tissue. The results have been shown to last 18 months or longer. Our tester LaVonne visited Martin Alpert, M.D., in private practice in Santa Monica, Calif.

Pain factor Alpert recommended taking a couple of acetaminophen tablets an hour before the treatment and using a topical painkiller in the form of an anesthetic cream in conjunction with an injection of the prescription painkiller Demerol. Even with that combination, LaVonne rates the pain of the procedure about 5. "It felt like I was being touched with a warm iron," she says. An area of skin about an inch square was heated with a wand that emits radio waves. The heat builds in intensity for a few seconds as each square inch is treated. The areas over bony structures, such as the temple, are more sensitive than those with some padding.

Post-treatment "There were no problems. My skin had a slight warmth, like a very mild sunburn, for about 24 hours," LaVonne explains. (Blistering can occur if a doctor is overzealous and applies too much energy to the skin; this didn't occur with our tester.)

The cost $2,000-$2,500 for a one-time treatment. Visit www.thermage.com for more information.

The bottom line "Results are extremely gradual," says LaVonne. "At two months I'm starting to see some subtle results, but improvement should continue over the course of an entire year."

* hair

"My hair is long, wavy and frizzy. I would spend up to half an hour blowing it out and then flat-ironing it, or I'd have to get a professional blowout."--Jody, 27

The treatment Hair straightening

Professional hair straightening used to take up to eight hours, but now a new process, called the Barbar Permanent Hair Straightening System, reduces that time significantly and takes just three. Our tester Jody visited the Julien Farel Salon in New York City, where Dominic Barbar (who was visiting from Los Angeles) worked on her hair. During the procedure, the stylist washed Jody's hair, applied a protein spray and protective cream, put a straightening solution on, rinsed it and then blew out the strands. (The solution breaks down the chemical bonds in the hair that cause it to be curly, effectively resetting the hair's memory of what shape it should take.) Once the hair was dry, the stylist flat-ironed each section of hair, sealing in the straightening solution. (Note: Hair must be healthy; if in doubt, book a consultation with the stylist first.) The treatment lasts about six months.